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	1
JJIlltAR'iV^^OF THl [1

r

TERKTS

rAPANESE EMPIRE

INCLUDING KOREA AND FORMOSA

WITH CHAPTERS ON MANCHURIA, THE

TRANS-SIBERIAN RAILWAY, AND THE CHIEF I

OCEAN ROUTES TO JAPAN '

i

A GULDEBOOK FOR TRAVELERS

BY

WITH 8 SPECIALLY DRAWN MAPS AND 21 PLANS

BOSTON AND NEW YORK

HOUGHTON MIFFLIN COMPANY

LONDON: CONSTABLE & CO., LTD. TOKYO: KYO-BUN-KWAN, GINZA, SHICHOME

1914 All rights reatrvtd

T. PHILIP TERRY, F.R.G.S. |

COPYRIGHT, I914, BY T. PHILIP TKRRY ALL RIGHTS RSSKRVKD

^^

FOREWORD

So many tourists now include Japan (and the Far East gfen- ersdly) in their annual travel-plans, that a trustworthy and down-to-date Guidebook of the Empire and its Colonial Pos- sessions has become an imperative necessity. Few countries of the world are more difficult to understand without such a book, and few, if any, are as fascinatingly interesting to the traveler properly equipped. While Dai Nippon is a land of singular and abiding charm, ite countless strange customs and significant shadowings oftentimes are too veued and subtle to be readily comprehended. The difficulty of interpreting them without misconception, of acquiring the correct perspec- tive, and maintaining the necessary poise and reserve, is ever present. Many things one sees are misleading, and those which appear the most simple sometimes are distinguished by an astonishing complexity. Nature herself not unfrequently seems so exotic m Japan that to court accuracy, and avoid hyperbole, considerable forbearance must be exercised when describing thines just as the eye sees them.

Our aim has been to present, in one handy and compact vol- ume rather than in two more expensive ones, an unusual amount of practical, helpful, and unbiased information about Japan and its people, yei by avoiding bleakness and stodginess to make that information as interestmg as possible compatible with brevity and exactness. Nearly twelve years of residence in the country, and repeated journeys on foot (and otherwise) from one end of it to the other, have qualified us to describe Ll. the things and places really worth seeing, and to advise the ^ hurried stranger how to see them in the shortest time and with ^ a minimum outlay of energy and money. In securing our ^, information about the country we have been unwilling to accept the reports of others, preferring in each case to go per- i sonally to the source, thus to secure data at first hand and so be "7 able to inspire the traveler with confidence in its accuracy. In

- - this we believe the book is unusual. The descriptions of Yezo,

— Formosa, Korea, the Trans-Siberian Railway, and others of o the world-routes to Japan, are, like the rest of the text, the Jj result of our own personal experience. The detailed account of

Korea, with the maps and plans which accompany it, appears now for the first time in a Guidebook in the English language. The descriptions and maps relating to little-known Formosa are new and are the most complete extant. The accMTa\,^\^ wjilied rates of raflways, flffceamsliips, and hotels enaVAc \.\i^

1^70373

iv FOREWORD

• traveler to plan his journey before undertaking it, and to know beforehand what its cost in time and money will be.

In the 283 pages of introductory matter under the heading, Preliminart Information, an effort has been made to inter- pret many things Japanese of interest to the traveler, and to aid him to a quick and satisfactory understanding of them. This special knowledge will be found greatly to enhance the pleasure of a visit to the Japan^ Empire. The monographs on How to Reach Japan, Traveling Expenses, Money, Guides, Hotels, Inns, and Food; Tips, Plan of Tour, Seasons, CUmate, Hints to Travelers, Health, Shops and Curios, Sports, Himting and Fishing, Geography, Language, Literature, Architecture, the Government and its Functions; the People and their Homes, Arts, Customs, ReUgion, and History; and the scores of minor subjects wUl be found of immediate and permanent value. The dispassionate estimates of Japan and the Japanese are beUeved to be just.

Those unfamiliar with the Japanese language, who may yet wish to travel without an expensive courier, will find of genuine value the vocabulary at page cxxx et seq., as well as the ver- nacular equivalents of many English words in the text. The Japanese words are transliterated on the Romagi system ex- plained at page cxxvli, and the different spelling of certain of them illustrates the various usages employed by authori- ties writing in that system. Most of the Chinese equivalents given are used in every-day Japanese speech. In many places throughout the text italic and other ty^pe forms have been employed more as an aid to the eye in picking out names from amid the Roman characters, than in an effort to accord with typographical requirements.

A meritorious Guidebook, by showing the careful traveler how to obtain the best returns for his money and time, should save its cost the first day it is used, and we venture to believe that such may be the case with this one. The economically inclined will find many money-saving hints scattered through- out it, and whosoever essays to do the Japanese Empire with- out the book will spend considerably more time, energy, and money than are necessary to the purpose. In no single in- stance have the material interests of the traveler been sacri- ficed to the selfish benefit of others.

The contents of the book, beginning at page 1, are divided into Seven Sections: I. Central Japan, Routes 1 to 12, pages 1 to 241. — II. Northern Japan, Rtes. 13-18; pp. 242 to 326. — III. Yezo, The Kuriles, and Saghalien, Rtes. 19-23, pp. 327 to 364.— IV. Western Japan, Rtes. 24r-38, pp. 365 to 646. — Y. Kyfishu and The Loochoo and Gotd Islands, Rtes. 39-43, pp. 647 to 692. — VI. Korea, Mtochuria, and The Trans- Siberian Rly., Rtes. 44-49, pp. 693 to 760. — VII. Formosa ajid The Pescadores, Rtes. 60-54, pp. 761 to 791. — To each

FOREWORD V

section is prefixed an index of the routes and subjects treated, so that each forms relatively a complete volume, apart from the general Table of Contents or the general Index.

Tne Maps and Plans were all drawn specially for the book, and they are the newest and most complete extant. Our sincere thanks are due to certain high officials of the Japanese Govern- ment, who. by foreshadowing the railway expansion during the next decade, have aided in making the chidf maps of imusual interest. Most of the city plans appear now for the first time in any guidebook, and tney are imiquely valuable to the traveler.

Japan is misiking such rapid progress that a Guidebook which is not changed every year quickly becomes obsolete. So con- stant is this evolution that sustained accuracy even between yearly editions is difficult. It dbiould be remembered that hotels particularly are liable to change in name, management, and in the treatment of guests. As it is the intention to keep the present book abreast of the times, we will genuinely appre- ciate corrections or su^estions with which observant travelers Doay favor us, especif^ such that will enable tourists to get the best return for their money and time. Such communica- tions shovQd be addressed to the author at Hingham, Mass., U.S.A, Hotelmen and others are warned against persons rep- resenting themselves as agents for Terry's Guidebooks and other piH>lications.

Asterisks (*) indicate excellence and imply commendation, and because of this they have been used sparingly and with caution. While from the view- I>oint of the Japanese, or of the foreigner familiar with their superior quali- ties, certain of the native inns well deserve approbation, to recommend them unreservedly might create a false impression in the mind of the stranger. Asterisks have therefore been withheld, but what the writer considers the best inn in each place has been mentioned first in the lists under their proper headings.

The letter h. with a date, after the name of a person, indicates the year of his birth, and d. the date of his death.

Where the word Indian has been used, without explanation, British India or its people or products is meant.

Prices quoted throughout the Guidebook are in Japanese money unless otherwise designated.

CONTENTS

PSage

I. Preliminary Information ....... xi

A. How to reach Japan xi

B. Traveling Expenses. Money. Ex- change. Banks. Passports. Custom- House. Commercial Travelers. Abacus.

Guides xviii

C. Hotels. Inns. Tea-Houses and Res- taurants. Japanese Food. Houses. Fur- nished Houses. Tips. Laundry . . . xxix

D. Plan of Tour. Tourist Societies. Climate. Seasons. Health. What to

Wear. Hints to Travelers Iv

E. Means of Transportation Ixxix

F. Post- and Telegraph-Offices. Tele- phones. Time . xcii

G. Weights and Measures xcviii

H. Photography. Hunting and Fishing c

I. Tobacco. Tea. Rice.' Sake. Chop- Sticks cv

J. Shops. Curios. Culture Pearis. Rock

Crystals. Jade cxii

II. The Japanese Language » . cxxiii

III. Geographical Sketch cxxxvii

Agriculture cxxxviii

Geology cxxxix

Mountains and Mountain Climbing . . cxxxix

Political Divisions cxli

The River System cxliii

Japanese Lakes cxliv

The Inland Sea cxliv

The Kuro-shiwo (Japan Stream) . . . cxlv

Hot Mineral Springs cxlvii

Mines cxlviii

IV. The Constitution. Flag. National Hymn .

People. Newspapers. Geisha. Beggars.

Thieves cl

V. Jujutsu. Wrestling. Harakiri. Tattooing . clxiv

VI. Architecture of Buddhist Temples .... clxxii

Dog of Fo, dxxvii. — ^Tennin, clxxvii. — Kirin, clzxviii. — Phoenix, cIxx^niL — Dragon, clxxxi. — Tortoise, dxxx. — Mausolea, dxxxi. — Tombs, clxzxi.

VII. Shinto Architecture. The Torii clxxxi

VIII. Pagodas. Feudal Castles. Bridges. Land- scape Gardens. Dwarfing clxxxiii

I^. Buddbism clxxxix

CONTENTS v^

Page

X. Buddhist Sects. Divinities. Temple Ac- companiments. The Lotus .... oxcix XI. Shintoism. Shinto Shrines. Shinto Wor- ship . • • ccxiv

XII. The Christian Religion. Bushido . • • ccxxi

XIII. A Survey of Japanese Art ccxxii

Painting ccxxiv

Color Prints ccxxxi

Ivory ccxxxvii

Wood Carving ccxl

Lacquer- Work ccxliii

Metal-Work • ccxlvi

Damascening ccxlvii

Silver and Gold cczlviii

Bronze ccxlix

Cl(HBonn4 Enamel • ocl

XIV. Ceramics ccli

a. Th« Wares of Ky5to ccliii

b. Satsuma Ware ccliv

c. Kiyomizu Ware • • cclvi

d. Kutani Ware . ' cclvii

e. Miscellaneous Wares cclviii

XV. Literature cclviii

XVI. Historical Sketch cdxii

XVII. Chronological Table cclxxviii

XVIII. Bibliography cclxxxii

^ I. Central Japan.

Route

1. Yokohama and its Environs 3

2. From Yokohama vik Kamakura (Enoshima) to Yoko-

suka (Uraga and Misaki) 28

3. From Yokohama around Fuji-san to Shoji .... 40

4. From Yokohama to the summit of Fuji-«an ... 45

5. From Yokohama to Miyanoshita, Lake Hakone, and

Atami .54

6. From Yokohama vii Tokyo to Karuizawa, Nagano,

Naoetsu, and Niigata (Sado Island) 65

7. From Yokohama to Ikao and Kusatsu 85

8. From Yokohama to the Bonin Islands .... 105

9. From Yokohama vii Kawasaki, Kamata (Ikegami),

and Omori to T6ky6 107

10. Tokyo 109

11. From Tokyo to Vries Island 235

12. From Tokyo vid Chiba, Sakura (Narita), and Naruto

to Choshi 236

1. From Tokyo vi& Chiba, Soga (Kisarazu) , and OauA

i/oKat8uura(Koinmato) ^l-VV

vfl! GONTENIS^

^ II. Northern Japan. „

Route Page

13. From Toky5 vid Utsunomiya toNikkQ (Chu^enji, and

Yumoto) ....... . . . .243

14. Nikko and its Environs ........ . . . . . 243

15. From Nikko to Ghuzemi and Yumoto , ; . , . . . . 296

16. From Yumoto vid the Aonsei Pass to Ikao . . , . * 303

17. From Tokyo yifi, Mitp, Sendai, Matsushima, and

Morioka to Aomori (Yezo Island) . : 305

18. From Tokyo yik Utsunomiya, Fukusjiima, Yamagata,

and Akita to Aomori (Hokkaido) 319

III. Yezo, The Kuriles, and Saghalien.

Preliminary Information . , . . 327

19. Hakodate and its Environs 345

20. From Hakodate viA Onuma, Otaru, Sapporo, Iwanii-

zawa, Oiwake, Shiraoi, and Noboribetsu to Muroran 348

21. From Hakodate vifi, Iwamizawa, Fukagawa, Asahi-

gawa, and Ikeda to Kushiro ... . . . . . 357

22. The Kurile Islands 358

23. Saghalien 361

IV. Western Japan.

24. From Yokohama vi& Kozu, Gotemba_(Fuji-san, Sh5ji),

and Shizuoka to Nagoya (Kyoto, OsakEi, and Kobe) 367

25. From Nagoya vifi, Shiojiri (Matsumoto, Shinonoi,

Niigata), and Kofu to Tokyo 384

26. From (Yokohama) Nagoya to Kyoto (Osaka and

.Kobe) . . . .• .^T"". . . .395

27. Kyoto and its Environs 400

28. From Kyoto to the Koya-san Monasteries , . . .511

29. From Kyoto to Amanohashidate 533

30. From Kyoto vid Yonago (Sakai and the Oki Islands),

Matsue, and Izumo-Imaichi to Kizuki (Shrines of Izumo) . . . . . .- j. . .539

31. From Wadayama to Himeji 544

32. From Maibara vi& Tsuruga, Fukui, Kanazawa, and

Tsubata (Noto Peninsula) to Naoetsu .... 545

33. From Kyoto vi& Fushimi, Momo-yama, and Uji to

Nara 549

34. Nara and it& Environs . • 554

35. From Nara to Yamada and the Shrines of Ise . . 598

36. From (Yokohama, Nagoya) Ky5to to Osaka and

Kobe .......... .^^'^^. . . 606

87. Kobe and Neighborhood .......... 618

38. From Kobe vl& Himeji, Okayama (Shikoku Island),

HJroshmia, and Miyajima to Shimonoseki . . . 632

CONTENTS

ix

V. KtYBH^ AND THE LOOCHOO AND Got5 ISLANDS. Route Page

39. From Shimonoseki (Moji) viA Hakata, Fukuoka,

TosUy Arita, and Saseho io Nagasaki 650

40. Nagasaki and its Environs 659

41. From Moji (Shimonoseki) vid Tosu and Eumamoto

(Aso Volcano) to Eagoshima . . . . . . . 671

42; From Kumamoto vi& Toshita, AsoHsan, Takeda, and

Oita to Beppu 679

43. From Beppu vi& Eokura to Moji (Shimonoseki) . . 692

VI. Korea, Manchuria, and the Trans-Siberian Railway.

44. From Shimonoseki (Japan) to Ftisan (Korea) . . w 693

45. From Fusan vi& SanrCshin (Mafeanpo), Taikyti, ^tl-

furei, Taiden (Kunsan, Mokpa), Seikwan, and Eit5ho (Jinsen, Chemulpo) to Seoul (Eeij5) . . 728

46. Seoul and its Environs . • . . . . * . . . 731

47. From Seoul vi& Kyibsan and Eitoho to Jinsen (Che-

mulpo) . . . . 750

48. From Seoul vi& Kaijo, K5shu (Kenjiho), and Heij5

(Chinnampo) to ShingishQ (Antung) . . . . . 752

49. Manchuria and the Trans-Siberian &ilway . . . 756

VII. Formosa (Taiwan) and the Pescadores.

50. Keelung (Kiirun) 774

51. From Keelung to Taihoku 775

52. Taihoku and its Environs 776

53. From Taihoku vik Hokuto to Tamsui 784

54. From Taihoku vid Toyen, Shinchiku, Byoritsu, Taichu

(Rokko), Kagi, and Tainan (Anping) to Takao . . 784

Abbreviations

ad. = address. Am. pi. = American plan, approx. = approximately, cent. = century; centimeter, circumf . = circumference, diam. = diameter.

E. = East; eastern, etc.

F. Fahr. = Fahrenheit, ft. = feet.

Gov't. = GovMTttment. hr. = hour, in. = inches, inhabs. = inhabitants, kiloms. = kilometers, lat. "= latitude, long. = longitude, lit. = literally. M. B miles.

mm. = minutes.

mos. = months.

Mt.. mt. = mountain.

N. «= North, northern, etc.

pers. = person.

gop. = population. Lly., rly. = railway. S. = South, southern, etc. s. = shilling, sq., sqr. = square. St. = street, sta. » station, tel. = telegraph. W. = West, western, etc. Wt* = weight. ¥. = Japanese dollar mark, yds. = yards, yr. = year.

The other abbreviations employed require no explanation.

LIST OF MAPS

1. General Hap of Japan and hs Possessions, and their relation to the continent of Asia; facing the title-page.

2. Ilie Main Iskmd ( Htmdd) ; SMkeku, Atoaji and otlier outlying irfands, and two enlarged insets; with a list of the chief cities and places of interest and their locations on the map, page ezxxvia.

3. Kamakura and Neighborhood, p. 28.

4. Bnvirons of Ikao, p. 87.

5. Country between Ikao, Kusatsu, Karuizawa and NikkG, p. 87.

6. IfikkjB and Bnvirons, p. 213.

7. Yezo, and Tlie Kuriles and SagfaaUen Island, p. 327.

8. Environs of SjOto, p. 490.

9. KSya-san, p. 511.

10. Environs of Nara, p. 578.

11. KyOshfi, and The Loochooand Goto Idands, p. 647.

12. Korea, with a portion of China and Russia, p. 603.

13. Formosa and outlying islands, p. 761.

The heights of the diffwent mts. are given in English feet.

The atoctstika shown near a temple indicates that it is Buddhist; the

torii that it is a Shirdd shrine.

The numbers placed near rly. lines and prominent cities, are Route

Numbers.

LIST OF PLANS

1. Yokohama, p. 3.

2. TOkyO, p. 100.

3. Shiba Park, p. 168.

4. Uyeno Pork, p. 197.

6. Imperial Museum, p. 201.

6. NikkO Mausolea, p. 250.

7. Hakodate, p. 345.

8. Nagoyo, p. 376.

9. Kyoto, p. 400.

10. Nara, p. 554.

11. Osaka, p. 607.

12. Kobe, p. 618.

13. Kobe Former Foreign Settlement, p. 620L

14. Nagasaki, p. 659.

15. Seoul, p. 732.

16. Taihoku, p. 776.

(Maps and Plans engraved by C. J. Peters & Son Company, Boston.)

I. Preliminary InformatioiL

A. How to reach Japan.

From San Francisco. The commodious ships of the Tovo Risen Kaisha (Oriental Steamship Co. ; office at 625 Market St.; comp. Tokyo) leave fortnightly (consult the company's handbooks) via Honolulu (2100 M., 6 days; fare $76: 12 hrs. stop; local guidebook free, of the Hawaii Promotion Conmiit- tee. Bishop St.) to Yokohama (3445 M. farther, in 11 days, through fare $200), Kobe ($207.50), Nagasald ($222.50) Shan^iai-Manila-Hongkong ($225). The course from San Francisco is S.W.; the average dail^ run (comjp. Time, p. xcviii) is 350 M. From Honolulu (chief city of the Territory of Hawaii, on Oahu Island, with 50,000 inhabs.) the course 18 southward of the Sandwich Islands (so called because Capt, James Cook, the English navigator who rediscovered them in 1778, had for his patron the ^ EaH of Sandwich, First Lord of the Admiralty) to lat. 24^, thence to lat. 32^ and direct to the entrance of the -Gulf of Tokyo.

The T,K.K, works in conjimction with the Denver & Rio Grande-Western Pacific Rly,, one of the grandest scenic routes of America. Modem express trains equipped with every known convenience and safety appliance; observation and dining-cars (d la carte service), etc., make the trip (stop-over privileges) from San Francisco (crossing California, Nevada, Utah, and Colorado) to (1585 M.) Denver (thence direct to Kansas City, St. Louis, Chicago, and New York) in about 2i days through a veritable wonderland. Conspicuous features are the 100 M. of magnificent scenery in the Feather River Caiion (of the Sierra Nevadas); Ogden; Salt I^ake City and the Great Salt Lake (elevation 4()00 ft.; area, 1600 sq. M.; average depth, 10 ft. ; 70 M. long; 30 M. wide; water, 26% salt ; specific gravity such that it sustains the human body) ; Marshall Pass and the Continental Divide (10,856 ft.); the Royal Gorge of the Arkansas River; Colorado Springs; Manitou; Pike's Peak (14,109 ft.; cog rly.); and many majestic mt. i>eaks, mineral springs, and fashionable resorts of the American Rockies. Attractive handbooks (finely illustrated in colors) containing information of value to travelers can be had (free) of any of the Co.'s agents.

San Fbancisco is a magnificent city of manifold sights and excellent hotels, and the stranger passing through it should plan to devote a week at least to a survey of its unique and beautiful environs. Many weeks could be spent to advantage visiting the world-famed California resorts which lie ooatiguoiis. Most of these occupy singularly attractive sites amid semi- teopio surroundings backed by wonderful views of mountains or forests, or stretches of entrancing sea, and all are brooded over by a climate so iMiltless that it attracts the ailing and the well alike from all part^ ol \i\ie world* Conspicuously excellent among the Saji Francisco Hotels \s \]be

xii HOW TO REACH JAPAN FROM CANADA

well-known, popular, and luxurious ^Palaee^ on Market St. near the buainesa center (rooma only, from S2.50 a day; meals d la carte at reason- able prices); and the stately and palatial *Fatrmon< (both recommended), celebrated for its delicious food, its commanding position on Nob HiU (5 min. from the business center), and its pcuioramic views of the city and bay; rooms with bath from $2.50; meals d la carte. Hotel omnibuses (50 c.) and runners meet all trains. Travelers arriving at Frisco sevm^ days prior to date of sailing can save storage and several transfer charges on ba^age (which will not be accepted at the dock before the day of sailing) by ddiver- ing checks to the agent of the Transfer Co. (trustworthy) that comes ab<Mird the train, and by requesting that trunks be held and delivered at the dock as required (inclusive charge 50 c. per package).

Japanbsb Monst (usefiU on landing in Japan) can be had (at about 2 yen for $1 — comp. p. zviii) of the San Francisco branch of the Yokohama Specie Bank, Ltd. (Sansome St.), or of Thos. Cook A Son, 689 Market St. (under the Palace Hotel).

From Canada. The Canadian Pacific Railway (usually referred to as the CP.R.) Company^ 8 Eoyal Mail Steamship Line (called the 'Empress' line) operates (in conjunction with the rly.) a fortnightly service (excellent to the smallest detail) from Vancouver, B.C. ( Vancouver Hotelj i M. from CP.R. station; cab 25 c; room and board, from $4 a day; room only, from $2), calling at Victoria (Empress Hotel, near the ship's landing, rooms only, from $2 a day; meals d la carte at reasonable prices) to pick up passengers from San Francisco (office at 645 Market St.) and southern ports. Fare from Vancouver, Victoria, San Francisco, and inter- vening points to (4283 M., in 9-12 davs) Yokohama $200; Kobe $207.50; Nagasaki $222.50; and Shanghai-Manila- Hongkong $225.

Of peculiar interest to the leisurely traveler fond of hunting and fishing is the fact that the Canadian Pacific Railioay traverses, between Montreid and Vancouver (2898 M., express trains in 4 days), perhaps the finest and best-stocked wild-game preserve in North America. Conspicuous among the big game of Canada are the moose, elk, caribou, musk-ox, grizzly bear, black bear, bighorn or mountain sheep, cougar, lynx, and antelope. There is a multiplicity of small fur-bearing animals, as well as an astonishing variety of feathered game and fine fish (bass, maskinonge, land-locked sal- mon, trout, etc.)- The company maintains a special Sportsman's Depart- ment (address General Tourist Agent, Canadian Pacific Railway, Mon- treal. Que.) which supplies free information relating to the best campini^ grounds, canoe-trips, outfits and supplies, guides, game-laws, etc. The chain of superb hotels (under the rly. management, and often amid magni> fioent mountain environments) which dot the line from the Atlantic to the Pacific, rank in point of luxury and comfort with those of any land, and while being considerably cheaper than metropolitan hotels, are ideal headquar- ters from which to make hunting or fishing trips. These mountain rbsortb (popular open-air sanatoriums, with hot medicinal springs, etc.) are much frequented by the foreign residents of Japan and China.

From Victoria the ships follow the Great Circle Track (shortest to the Orient) south of Alaska, until the Aleutian Islands, with their oftentimes magnificent volcanic displays, are sighted, then the course is S.W. to the Kinkazan liight- house, whence it is a short day's run to the Avxt Headland, at the entrance to Tokyo Bay, In summer the North Pacific i7 delighHuily cool; in winter the ships seek the warm waters

ROUND THE WORLD TOURS xill

of the myBterious Kvro^iwo (oomp. p. cxlv) and follow the course of the current to the Japanese Coast.

The ships of both the foregoing lines compare favorably in size (20,000 tons and upward), speed, eouipment, good food, and general comfort with many of the best trans- atlantic liners, and are strictly modem (wireless telegraphy, dectric fans, sufficient lifeboats, etc.). Owing to their popu- larity they usually run full during the spring and autumn sea- sons, and cabins should be engaged well m advance. The Japanese and Chinese stewards speak English. The custom- ary fare for Children on both lines is: under 12 and over 5 yrs. i the adult fare; 2 and under 5 yrs. \\ imder 2 free (for 1 child; others at the } rate). Round-tnp tickets, good for 6 and 12 months, to Yokohama $300 and $350 respectively; Kobe $312.50 and $365; Nagasaki $334 and $393.75; Shanghai- ManUa- Hongkong $337.50 and $393.75. Customary reduc- tion for missionaries, servants, and others. Steamer-chairs rentable on board for $1 for the voyage. Laundry on the ship at reasonable prices. Baggage allowance 350 lbs. in addition to hand-luggage; excess (usually overlooked unless there is a big lot) at 3 c. per lb. Travelers from Europe or the Atiantic Seaboard can save considerable by remembering that a through ticket (cheaper in proportion than one bought on the Pacific Coast) entitles one to 350 lbs. of baggage on the transcontinental rlys. (where 150 lbs. is the usual allow- ance, and where excess generally costs about 12 c. a lb.).

Round the World Tours are sometimes made (about 80 ^ys) by the C.P.R. Co. in its own ships (very popular) at an inclusive fare of $639. At other times they are planned in connection with the fine ships of the Peninsular & Oriental Steam Namgation Co., the Norddeuischer Lloyd, and other weU-known lines, at prices ranging from $639, according to the countries visited. Time limit 2 years. Beside trans- pacific and transatlantic services the C.P.R. Co. operates the Canadian Australian Royal Mail Steamship Line between Vancouver and Hawaii (2435 M. ; fare to Honolulu $75, Ist cL), Fiji ($200), New Zealand (6250 M.; fare $200). and Aus- tralia (7265 M.; to Sydney $200; Melbourne $207); and world tours are arranged which include these places. Thus, from Vancouver to Australia, thence to Japan (Nippon Yusen Kaisha Line, p. xvi), Ceylon, and Europe, costs $827.40. — Tickets over the Toyo Risen Kaisha at the same prices. This company also operates an excellent bi-monthly service between Yokohama and South American ports, touching at ManzaniUo and Salina Cruz (Mexico). Detailed information upon application to any of the company's agents.

The Intermediate Service, or * One-Class Cabm' a\i\pa operated by both Vmes appeal to the economicaWy-mcVm^A

xiv HOW TO REACH JAPAN PROM SEATTLE

traveler. The vessels are those which but a few years ago were ' crack ' liners, but which have now been outclassed by even larger ones. They are equal to the best class on certain other lines and are deservedly popular. Fare to Yokohama $150; to Kobe $157.50; Nagasaki $171; Shanghai-Hongkong- Manila $175 (round trip, with 6 months' limit, $225; $236.50; $256.50, and $262.50 respectively). — A special Mixed^Rate round-trip ticket to Japan and China ports ($262.50 to $300 good for 6 months, and $298.90 to $342.65 with a 12 months' limit) enables one to proceed on the first-class ships and return on an intermediate one, or vice versa.

Passengers bound for points beyond Japan are privileged to exchange a portion of their ticket (consult the slup's Purser) and travel on the Japanese Railways (see p. Ixxxiii) by payine a trifling additional amount to cover the extra chai]ge collected on express trains, etc. Tips are mentioned at p. liv.

The Pacific Mail S.S, Co, also operates a fortnightly "ser- vice from San Francisco to Japan and China ports; rates of passage practically those of the Toyo Risen Kaisha.

From Tacoma and Seattle. Nippon Yusen Kaisha <8ee p. 139); fortnightly to (4285 M. in 14-16 days) Yokohama and Kobe (fare $110, 1st cl.; round trip with 6 months' limit $165); Shanrfiai-Hongkong ($125 and $187.50), and Manila ($150 and $225). Round the World Tours $500 (vi& Montreal) and (vift New York) $510 (2 yrs. limit). The line operates in America in conjunction with the Great Northern and the Northern Pacific Railwavs; and in Japan (to Europe^ Australia, etc.) with its own big.neet of ships.

Osaka Shosen Kaisha (see Osaka) j fortnightly to Yoko- hama, Kobe, Moji, and Nagasaki; fare $95, 1st cl. (thence to Shanghai-Manila-Hongkong $110). Returning the (single) fare from Manila is $130; Hongkong-Shanghai $110; and Japan ports $95. Round trip, 6 months' limit $150-165; for 1 yr. $175-$190. In America the company works in conjunc- tion witii the Chicago, Milwaukee & Puget Sound R.R.; in Japan with its own extensive fleet of ships. The excellent little guidebooks issued (free) by the publicity department (* A Guide to Manchuria and Beyond ' ; to * Formosa' ; * Vladivos- tock'; 'Korea,'; 'Tientsin'; 'Dairen'; and to the company's ' Inland Sea Service ') are attractive and useful.

Both of the foregoing lines carry the American and Japan- ese mails and both are popular with travelers of modest means. The ships carry English-speaking officers and are equipped with ample lifeboat facilities, wirel^ outfits, free libraries, electric fans, laundries, etc. Steaip^-chairs free. Baggage allowance 350 lbs. Rates for children are: under 12 yrs. flare; under 4 yrs. free (more than one child i rate extra). The same jorivileges are granted over the Japanese Railways as those menfy'oned above.

HOW TO REACH JAPAN FROM EUROPE zv

From Europe. Of all the extended ocean voyagee of the worid, none are equal in su9tained picturesque charm and value for tourists to the 45 days' trip from (12,114 M.) London or Bremen yi& the Atlantic to the Mediterranean, thence tiirough the Suez Canal, Red Sea, Indian Ocean^ Straits of Malacca, China Sea, Inland Sea of Japan, tand the Pacific Ocean to Yokohuna. On the outward voya^ ships of the diief lines call every 3 or 4 days at some fascmatingly inter- esting port and usually stop long enough to allow passengers to go ashore for a few hours and wander through the briUiant, sunlit streets, the glittering bazaars and shops, the gorgeous temples, botaiiical gardens, museums, etc., for which each may be lamous. Gibraltar, Algiers, Marseilles, Grenoa, Naples, Brindisi, Malta, Port Said, Suez, Aden, Colombo, Penang, fiSngapore, Hongkong, Manila. Shanghai, Nagasaki, and Kobe are tmiched at by most of tne ships mentioned hereinafter, and the booklets (see below) issued by the companies usually give a condensed historical sketch of each port and sufficient practical information about it to enable the traveler to see the thii^ most worth seeing in the shortest possible time.

Ofthe various lines which ply regularly between Europe and the Far East, a limited numbier carry the bulk of the travel, and as space forbids reference to all of them, only those most popular with the traveling public will be mentioned in detail. The North German Lloyd (or NarddeuUcher lAoyd, known throughout the East as the German Mail, and as the N,D.L,). the Peninsular & Oriental Steam Navigation Company (called the P. & 0. for short), and the Nippon Yusen Kaisha (referred to usually as the N,Y,K,)y all with large fleets, magnificent ships, and every refinement necessary to comfortable travel in low latitudes (electric fans, air-cooled cabins, music at meals, libraries, la&ndries, etc.), are preeminent, and each possesses individual points of excellence which appeal to travelers. All run so full during the autunm, winter, and spring that to secure accommodations one must apply for them well in advance. This is especially so on the voyages to Europe between Oct. and Jan., when the season for India and Egypt (both are uncomfortably hot in March) is at its height, and when travelers who have come to Japan in Sept. -Nov., to see the chrysanthemums and maples, continue southward through China and India, with plans for Continental Europe in the early spring.

Rates of Passage. The P. & O. ships sail fortnightly from London vi& many ports to Yokohoma; £65, 1st cl.; on inter- mediate ships (smaUer but very comfortable) £59; £44 and £40 respectively, 2d cl. Children over 12 yrs. full fare; over 3 yrs. } fare; } fare for an additional child under 3 yrs. Luoqa^qii aBowance 336 lbs. in addition to hand-baggage. Excesa \>e- tween xay two porta 10s. per cwt — The P. & 0. PuaiiSTiKEk

jcvi HOW TO REAC^ JAPAN FROftI EPQPPB

Cbuisbs in the Meditenranean are unique in their wav; {ujimirably planned, and conducted on luxurious and perfectly .api|t»Qinted ships at reasonable rates. For maps, itinerary notes, sauing dates, fares, etc., consult the handbooks (attractivelv grintea in colors) issued (free) by the company. The P, & O- Pocket BbOK,^. handsomely illustrated guidebook with 280 pages and numerous excellent maps and plans, is of imn^e* diate value to travelers in Egypt, India, AustraUa, and the Far East (price 2s. 6d.). The 'Motor Map of Ceylon' (free) in book form gives information of value to mptorists. The P. & 0, Handbook of Information contains rates, saiUi^ dates, and other matter pertaining to the Une. Free on appli- cation to any P. & 0. agent. Circular Tickets vi& Siberia and Suez, or vice versa, to the Far East, available for 2 yrs. and with privilege of breaking the journey at the principal places on the sea voyage, are to be had at fares ranging from £104, 14«. Id., 1st cL, and £71, 15s. Id., 2d cl.

The North German Lloyd; fortnightly from Antwerp, Bremen, Hamburg, Rotterdam, and Southampton vi& ports to Yokohama; £71, 10s., 1st cl.; £48, 8s., 2d. cl. Rate for chil- dren the same as that of the P. & 0. Lugqage allowance 440 lbs. (200 kilos), providing it does not measure more than 1 cubic meter. Hand-baggage free. Excess baggage £2, lOs. per ton. The magnificently appointed ships of the company are too well known to require description. The Travelers' Checks and Circular Notes issued by the company are referred to in detail at Pt xviii. Information relating to the circular voyages through the South Sea Islands wiU be found in the excellent Handbooks — issued frequently (free). ; The Nippon Yusen Kaisha (oomp. Tokyo) ; fortnightly fipm London and Antwerp vi4 ports to Yokohama. The largest ships (8000 to 15,000 tons) come lihder Class A; those of 6000-8000 tons under Class B. Fare by the former $275, 1st cl. (return voyage 600 yen)] $190, 2d cl. By the latter $250, 1st cl. (returning 550 yen) and $175, 2d. cl. The Hand- book OP Information (in English, free) issued by the com- pany contains data relating to ships, etc., and historical sketches (including hotel rates, etc.) of the chief cities of Java, India, Australia, etc. Steamer-chairs free. Children und^ 12 yrs. i fare; 1 under 3 yrs. free; others at J fare..

All the foregoing lines sell Round-Trip tickets available for 2 yrs. at 1^ fares. Single-Trip tickets customarily are good for 12 months and have stop-over privileges. With the exception of those of the N.Y.K.^ the rates of passage from Japan to Europe are about 10 per cent less than those from Europe to Japan. Round the World tickets (2 yrs. limit) over the N,Y,K. and aUied lines cost from $500 upward accord- ing to the route followed; over the P. <fe 0. viA Canada or the iZRA. ffi38 (mduding AustraUa $826); over the N.G.L.

HOW TO REACH JAPAN FROM AUSTRALIA zvii

|655 and upward; 2d cl. in proportion. The reductions in fares for tliose who travel overland between England and Italy are mentioned in the literature of the several companies. Stefuner-tnmks for all ships should not measure above 33 in. long. 16 in. hi^, and 20 in. wide.

The Messaqeries MarUimes de France (French Mail Line) con- ducts a fortnightlv service between Marseilles (vid ports) and Yokoluima (fare |336, 1st cl.) and is patronized chiefly by pa- triotic Frenchmen. The cuisine, hours of meals, etc., are French.

llie Trans-Siberian Railway, is described in Rte. 49.

From Australia. The Nippon Yuaen Kaisha maintains an excellent 4-weekly service (good ships, recommended) between Yokohama and Melbourne (7074 M. ; 37 days; fare £48, 1st cl. ; £30 lOs., 2d cl.), touching on the outwara voyage at Hong- kong (1808 M.; fare 100 yen, 1st cl.; 69 yen. 2d cL); Manila (2439 M.; 130 and 78 yen); Thursday Islaad (4632 M.; £33 and £19); Townsville (5296 M.; Jd38 and £25); Brisbane (5986 M.; £44 and £29), and Sydney (6494 M.; £47 and £30). The same general condiitions exist relating to children, lug- gage, round-trip tickets, etc., as on the European and Ameri- can lines. The course from Manila is southward through the beautiful East Indies, over the Sulti and the Celebes Seas; through the tortuous passages of the Molucca or Spice Islands; thence across the Banda Sea, the Gulf of Carpentaria, through Torres Straits,and inside the Great Barrier Reef which stretches for over a thousand miles along the Pacific shore of Queens- land. Few voyages in the East compare with it for tropical beauty and charm. The natives of some of the islands touched at are as wild os any cannibals, and wonderful South-Soa Island curios can be had in the shops of the difforont ports.

Big ships of the North German Lloyd also make the trip every 4 weeks from Yokohama to Melbourne (fare £48, 1st cl.; £31 2d. cl.), touching at Hongkong, Manila, Yap, Bria- bane, and Sydney (£40 and £29 10s.); round trip tickets at reduced rates, etc.; the same regulations exist aa are found on the European line.

The P. & O. Service is from Yokohama to Colombo (5123 M., fare £31, 1st cl.), thence to Sydney (5556 M.; £41, 1st el.; £29, 2d cl.).

Detailed information relating to all the lines is to be found in the different handbooks issued by them.

Ilates of passage, etc., applying to the Eastern &- Australian S.S, Co,, Ltd. (monthly service between Yokohama and Austra- lian ports) can be had on application to any of its agents.

The Conducted Tours of Thos. Cook & Son; Tfie Raymond & Whitcamb Cor, The Collver Tours Co.; The Hamburg Ameri- can S.S. Co.] Pacific Travel Bureau; Frank C/arfc, and others are varied, popular, and cheap. Full information conceTiuw^ them can be obtained from the prospectuses issued by each.

xviii EXPENSES AND MONEY

B.Traveliiig Expenses. Money. Exchange. Banks. Passpofts. Costom-House. Commercial Travelers. Abacus. Guides.

Expenses. The cost of traveling in Japan is less than in Europe or the United States. The average daily outgo will vary from 8 to 15 yen ($4 to $7.50 U.S. money), accord- ing to one's requirements and willingness to forego non-es- sentials. This sum should include jinriki fares and might be made to cover 2d cl. fares on railways if short journeys only were made. A material sa^dng can be effected if one is content with simple fare and environment, modest apartments in hotels, and will walk or use tram-cars instead of hailing a motor-car or a jinriki at every turn. These last and guides add considerably to the cost of getting about, and both mive a way of creating other expenditures. Living is higher in the large cities on the direct hne of tourist travel than m the interior of the country, where from 5 to 8 yen will be the average dail^ expense, provided guides and special conveyances are elimi- nated. These estimates do not include wmes, motor-trips, geisha entertainments, or other unusual extras. They can be reduced by 25 per cent or more by settling in a place for a long stay. The small daily cost of a good mineral water should not be begrudged, as it is wiser to economize in other ways than to omit this necessary health precaution.

Travelers' Cheques and Letters op Credit afford the maximum of protection and convenience in travel money matters. American Bankers' Association Travelers' Cheques (known practically everywhere as " A.B.A." Cheques) are is- sued by thousands of banks in the United States and Canada (and other countries of the globe), and besides being redeem- able at upward of fifty thousand banks throughout the worid, are universally accepted in payment of hotel bills and other travel expenses. They are protected against fraud by the Wil- liam J. Bums National Detective Agency, and are the only travelers' cheques that under the law can be accepted by the United States Customs officials. " A.B.A." Cheques are issued in the customary denominations of $10, $20, $50, and $100. at the usual rate of i of 1 per cent premium.

The North German Lloyd S.S. Co., the Canadian Pacific Rail- way Co, and others also issue Travelers' Cheques of the above denominations at the same rate. On presentation of such cheques the traveler is paid their equivalent in the money of the country visited. They render one independent of the numer- ous bank holidays observed in the Far East and are both safer to carry, and cheaper to handle, than coin or currency.

Their possession will often save the traveler a heavy discount on his ready money. Comp. Exchange^ p. xxi.

Money (kane; hinsu; hinsen, etc.). The currency of Japan is arranged on the decimal system with the gold standard (re-

MONEY

verted to in 1897) as the base. The monetary unit is the yen (Chinese: yuen, 'round/ a 'round thing/ a 'dollar') of 100 aen (cents), worth approximately 50 American cents; 2 shil- ling and a penny; 2 marks; 2i francs; or a Mexican peso. Neither the silver yen (which is the same size as an Amer. cilver dollar) nor the gold coins {kin-ka) which liie silver (jffin) ccHns represent are seen in circulation; the former having been withdrawn, and the latter being used chiefly to pay foreign loans or their interest. They can be had at par at neariy any of the banks. The corresponding sign for the dollar mark in Japan is the initial Y of the yen with two horizontal lines across the stem, thus ¥. The current coins and notes are: —

1 i%dn) rin (or 10 mo, or mon), the equiralent of 1 mill or 1-10 of 1 ten;

of o<xiper (dd-ha).

6 Qfo) rin; i «en, or 1-200 of one yen (¥1) ; copper.

1 ten (iehi sen), equal to 10 rin, or 1-100 of a yen; copper.

2 •• (niaen), ^* " 20 " " 1-50 *

B " (ffo ««n), ** " 1-20 of 1 yen, the only nickel (niekeru) coin. 10 ** C/fi sen), a dime, or 1-10 of a yen; silver. 20 ** (nv-/fi een), i of a yen (the Japanese franc piece); silver. 100 '* (icAt yen or en); of paper (ehihei).

5 yen; of gold;'!also paper; pronouncea go en, 10 * " " " jew en.

The new 2(y-sen piece is of an equal circumference with the 5sen nickel, and after dark is easily mistaken for it. To avoid proffering the more valuable piece where the nickel is intended, one has out to remember that the former has a milled edge and that the latter is smooth. The b^iks take no coin smaller than the rin into account, but petty tradesmen often make calculations in the mon a perforated copper coin equal to 1-1000 of a ktjoan (the income of a daimyq measured in cash), and in ehu — ancient rectangular silver coins not used now. They also customarily say go rin instead of J sen. The 'cash * (O-saisen) of Japan is 1-20 of a sen and is used chiefly as an offering in the contribution-box (saisen-bako) of temples — near the approaches to which they can usually be bought. The large oblong ones with a hole in the center are sold in curio-shops at a small advance of their face value (8 rin). The name Tempo (an abbreviation of Temposen) is (hie to the fact that the legitimate coins (now rare) were minted during the Tempo era (8th cent.) and struck again in 1830-43 (with- drawn between 1873-85). Five- and lO-sen pieces, and 1-yen notes are sometimes ' cornered ' by speculators, and to supply the demand and profit by it, small exchange-booths stand just outside the entrance to many of the prominent rly. stations Money is exchanged for a premium of 1 per cent.

Bank Bills (redeemable in gold, at par) of 1, 5, 10, 100, and 1000 yen circulate from government and private banks and are beautifully printed (at Tokyo, in the Insatsu Kyoku) on tough but fine native paper manufactured specially for the p\irpo«fc. Ibe iMiper, mlver, and mckel monies are freely co\mlerlev\ftd.

MONEY

Values are expressed in Japanese and EnpUsh. The vigiiettefl on certain of the notes refer to episodes in the history of the nation, or picture historical or mythological characters. Bills of the Bank of Japan {Nippon Ginko) have a wider circulation than others. A medallion of the old silver yen may be seen on the back of the 1-^en note. The 5-|/en is imiquely handsome; when held against the light the blank medallion discloses the smiling, mischievous face of the elusive Daikoku, 'God of Wealtfi.' The fine portrait is of Sugawara Michizane, and the shrine on the reverse, the KUano Tenjin (in Kyoto). On the face of the. IQ-^en note is the 16-petal imperial chrysanthe- mum, a portrait of Wake Kiyomaro, and a shrine (the Go-o^ nnsha) erected to his memory near the old Imperial Palace in Kyoto. The vignette of a running wild boar on the reverse is not, as is commonly supposed, due to the money being printed in the Year of the Boar, but because Kiyomaro was fond of hunting this animal, and that a pair of them, carved out of stone, stand before and guard the entrance to his shrine, in place of the customary Dogs of Fo. The portrait on the face of the lOO-yen note is of Fujiwara Kamatariy wfth his favorite temple ( Tamv/^o-^mine) in Yamato. An illustration of the Bank of Japan is shown on the reverse. The notes of small denomina- tions are the most convenient to carry and use in the interior of Japan, as change for a lOO-yen bill is not always to be had.

The regulation fineness of the coins is: Gold, 900 parts with 100 of copper; silver, 800 and 200; nickel, 750 with 260 of cop- per; copper, 950 with 40 parts of tin and 10 of zinc. The new 20- and 50-sew pieces are considerably smaller than the earlier coins they are gradually replacing. The gold coins carry wreaths and crests of the imperial chrysanthemum and the Paidovmia imperialism with the date, the words Dai Nippon (Great Japan), and the rising sun. The mythological dragon is disappearing from the national coins. A^ile American and Enelish money will be received in many of the Japanese hotels and business houses, very little foreign money of any kind is found circulating in Japan. The traveler has to be on his guard chiefly against counterfeits. Perforated money is rarely met with, as coins have never been used as ornaments in Japan. Any public display of money should be avoided, as pickpockets, though not numerous, are extraordinarily skillful.

Prior to A.D. 708 the coined money used in Japan came from China, whence also came the idea of a mint for making it. Silver was discovered in Tau- ihima in a.d. 674, but it was not until during the Wado era (708-715) that copi>er was found in the Chichihu Ran^e in Mtiaashi, and Japan established (in the Province of Omi) her first mint and struck her first coins. The toketis were chiefly of copper, for although an issue of silver and of gold coins was made in 760, the idea of monometalism pleased the people, and copper became the current coin of the realm. In the early days when a mer- chant acquired gold or silver bullion he usually followed the ancient Chinera custom of cutting it into parallelograms of the reauired siae and paying it out by^ weight. Later, considerable quantities of these metals were sent to Obina in excbtmge for Cbineae copper tokens for which a national demand

EXCHANGE xxi

existed — - for the easting of idols and other temple ornaments. At first the ratio between silver and copper was 1 to 4; later it was fixed at 1 to 25, and finally 1 to 10. Between 760 and 958 other mints were established at Harinuit Nagaio, and Dcuaifu, and from these and the original Omi mint 11 new sets of coins were issued. Counterfeiters became so plentiful and so b(M tliat those convicted were enslaved or beheaded, while accessories to the crime were made ^ov't slaves. In 958, Buddhistic seal made it impos- nble for Japan to maintain her metallic currency. As the mints were small affairs which did not absorb more than 20 tons of copper a year, and as the rage for temple bells and idols grew at such a pace that every ounce of cop- per obtainable was used in making them, the gov't mints closed and did not opemto again for 6 centuries, or during the time of Hideyoahi in 1587. Theax closure was hastened by the gov't device of debasing the coinage, which soon became almost as worthless as inflated pai>er money. The Dutch txuders withdrew an immense amount of gold, silver, and copper frc«n the country, and it is said that in the 16th and 17th centuries the value of this amounted to £9,500,000.

' In tiie last quarter of the 16th cent, a wholly new departure was made under tiie auspices of the Taikd — that great captain, administrator, poli- tician, statesman, and art patron, whose influence for progress was felt in almost every region of Japan's national existence. At the mint founded by him, and placed under the direction of the Goto family (the greatest workers in noetal Japan ever possessed), a coin was struck magnificent in dimen- dons and entirely original in design. The easiest way to conceive it is to suppose 16 guineas beaten into an oval plate, its surface hammered in wave pattern and having the superscription, "ten ryo" boldly written in black ink. It was certainly a very remarkable transition from a little copper token, not an inch in diameter and worth only a fraction of a farthing, to a dab of gdd as large as a man's open hand and worth 16 guineas. This Oban {or large plate) contained about 68 per cent of gold and 29 per cent of silver. Owing to the large percentage of silver, its surface had a pale, silvery cast, and to give it the appearance of pure gold the mint, rather than go to the added expense of gilding it, dissolved the silver from the surface layers. Other gold coins were also struck, — a 5-ryo piece, a 1-ryo and a:\-ri/o piece, — and there were also silver coins somewhat similar in shape and design, though of smaller dimensions.'

Paper money became popular about the middle of the 17th cent., and soon tiiereafter upward of 1700 varieties of notes were circulating in the various districts. There were gold, silver, rice, and a long list of notes re- deemable in as many articles, the circulation of each kind bcinK liinitod to the confines of the issuing fiefs. Many are still in existence and thoy occupy in Japan much the same ptosition that Confederate money does in the United States. The currency system established at the beginning of the Meiji ora was based on the gold standard, with the gold yen as the unit. The first modem mint was establ^hed (under British auspices) at Osaka in 1871, and it has been oi>erating ever since. The cmployons now arc Japanese.

Numismatists will be interested in the handsome ryo pieces, and in the various little iron, copper, bronze, and silver coins issued prior to 1870. These with the paper money of earlier times are oft<»n to be found in the curio-stores, framed in groups purporting to be complete collections, with historical data referring to the issues. Buyers should be sure that the ryo pieces are up to the standard of weight and fineness.

Exchange. The variations in the exchange between Japanese and foreign monies is slight, — depending upon the demand and market quotations, — but even small differences amount to considerable in large transactions, and before putting such through, the traveler is advised to consult some business friend familiar with the idiosyncracies of the money market, or to scan the daily quotations (under ' Exchange ) in the news- papers. If the London price of bar silver shows even a m\T\\\le &fference, the exchange rate is apt to operate in sympat^^f

xxii EXCHANGE

with it. When tibe quotations are disadvantageous, the fo»- veler should hold off for a few days until the market regains itp normal tone. For the checks, circular notes, and letters of credit mentioned under Money, the exchange at sight is usually about 2 yen for 1 American dollar; English money being a trifle less owing to the inherent difference in value. If the holaer of such symbols has business friends in Japan with financial obligations to meet in Europe or America, he can often make a more advantageous deal with them than with the foreign banks — both parties to the transaction saving a trifle in the form of commissions. The difference between the buying and selling rates of exchange is a potent factor in the large divi- dends which the foreign banks are usually enabled to pay, and as these petty ' squeezes ' cannot always be dodged, it behooves the traveler to sell his drafts, etc., to the hi^est bidder. He will therefore wish to remember that certain of the large native institutions (whose trustworthiness is beyond aU question), with branches in the chief cities of the world, often- tmies work on closer margins than the foreigners. The Yoko^ hama Specie Bankj Ltd.j has a branch at London, and the traveler, with Japanese money which he wishes to deposit in Japan in exchange for an order which he can cash at sight in London, can sometimes effect a saving by selling it to them. If, for example, a draft for £150 is wanted and the foreien bank quotes exchange at the rate of 2s. Z-Sd. (which would mean yen 1476.^2) against the offer of the Japanese bank of 28. 7-16d. (yen 1473.14) a saving of yen 3.78 would be effected (yen 2.60 on £100; yen 1.26 on £50; and 51 sen on £20). It should be remembered that a better price can usually be ob- tained for foreign money in Japan than for Japanese money in a foreign country.

The market for cash money is capricious, depending usually upon the supply and demand, or the whim of the money- changer. Although the yen is quoted officially as worth a trifle less ($0.4935) than 50 cents U.S. money, foreign banks often persist in throwing the exchange the other way and giving a little less than double (say IS^ yen for $100) for American currency, and still less for silver coins — which are supposed to be costly to transport. Gold coins find a ready sale in T6k^0 and will usually bring double their face value. The best pnce for gold can generallv be obtained from the Chinese money- changers, who will take a small profit if they cannot get a large one. A saving of 1 per cent can often be made by shopping about until the best offer is found. When one wishes to ouy foreign money, its value is suddenly enhanced, the exchange going the other way and always to the profit of the broker. The difference in the value of gold, currency, and fractional silver is also made light of or lost sipht of, all being quoted at tJie highest rate. Buyers of Russian money may wish to

tbo tiBQlM&88 18 sonnal eertflfan jbroloen oMffl 106t«»».for 100 itnibla^ vviuls 0^ vBtakalMipni. Anov^^beMecnleca&beaecuredinSeoiil (KorinA). CliMiWii fmclioiml cttnenoy shottld be acoq;>ted with fljtftfwy 1 itk ofatt: tftccmated heavily. Befote buyiii^ ex* ehaaBB^n GhiM^ eaasuh some friend familiar with local con* dMonie in-tfak caae ako the native banks will often qaote better raiee than the foreign onea.

The toBftder who expects to remain in Japan for any length cf tiaa»eatteatiiiBtefest (usually 2 per cent on dally oalanoes abeverflOO feii) on Us qpaie money by opening a current ao- eovift with eaeef the banks, and dieeking against it as he needs iL It ilMnld be lemembered, however, that this interest is added to the aeeomt at the eod of 6 months, and if the ao- eem^ is dnaini down before, and the interest is not called for, it wamw be overiooked. A materiaUy. better rate can be ob- tained by means of -l^aie Dq;»osits,'f(Hr dor 12 mmitiMi. Tlie nate flnctnatei^ but the foreign banks usually pay 3i to 4 per 9&Bttf xeepeelivelyf and the native banks 4 to o per cent*

The SzGBavoQi Bbokmbb aHeaa. seen speeding about the fonigii wttJemwits of the sometime treaty ports^ in jinrikis dsmii by 3 to 3 fleet coolies^ act as go-betwieens wiith the mer- elHBrti Hid the banks.

SzcBAKGB Tablbs, in handy book form, showing the value ef VJEULf Enjjiiiih, and other monios at the various rates of exchange, may be had of local book dealers.

Banks (OitM) where Travelers' Checks, Circular Notes, Letters of Credit, etc., can be cashed (see Exchange) are es- tdi>liflfaed in all the large port cities of the Pacific. Iq planning Joturneys the traveler will do well to scan the newspapers for advernsements of the numerous bank hoUda3rs. llie Yoko" hama Spjscie Bankf lAd, ; the Bank of Japan ; Mitsid Ginkd ; Dai Idii Qinkd, and others among the Japanese banks rank on a par with the f ordgn institutions and poesesfs the advantage of temdies in the interior and .remote cities where foreign banks are not represented. The best known among these are the Chartered Bank qf India, AvMraUa, and China (English); IfUemaHmal Banting Corporation (American); Deutsch- AaiaUsihe Bank (German); nonkgong & Shanghai Banking Co, (China), etc. Tourists may like to remember that although no SBU^ part of ihe large annual profits of the foreign banks are derived from the exchange on the many drafts, etc., pre- sented by the armv of travders who visit Japan, some profess not to care for the business, and treat small financial deals with aBaat4XNirte8y. On the ower hand, the Japanese banks^ Tour- ■"■"HieB, etc., cater for the business and often make it more Seous for the tniFeler to dea/ with them. (SosMoae^.^

ixiv CUSTOM-HOUSE

' Passports (kittet iegata) are unnecessary in Jat)an. They are Sometimes useful, particularly in official circles, when the tra^ veler wishes to establish his iaentity. Englishmen may secure them (cost 2 shillings) from the Passport Department of the Forei^ Office, at London; Americans must apply (cost $2) to the Bureau of Citizenship, State Department, Washington, D.C. They can be secured at the American Embassy at Tokyo, or the Consulate General at Yokohama, at a cost of ¥4.02. If a regular passport is required, from 2 to 3 months must elapse before it can come from Washington; otherwi^ the traveler is supplied with an Emergency Passport, applsdnjg (6 months' limit) to the countries which ne specifically signi- fies his desire to travel tiu^ugh. A single document, properly visaed, serves for a man and his family. Passports are requi- site for Siberia and Russia; without them travelers will be turned back at the frontier. They must have thevis6 of a Russian Consul; cost in Yokohama, ¥2.36.

The Ixnperial Japanese Custom-House (Zeikwan) has branches (English spoken) at all ports of entry. The formali- ties are never to be dreaded. Duties on many imported articles are hi^, but incoming travelers are welcomed and are allowed an unusually hberal amount of baggage. All the articles neces- sary to a long sea voyage are passed free, and each traveler may bring with him a camera, a typewriter, steamer-chairs, books, manuscripts, docmnents, tools, and instruments of professional necessity in so far as they correspond to the social or commercial status of the owner, samples of merchandise only fit to be used as such, etc. (See Automobiles.) The offi- cials are courteous and lenient, and neither accept nor expect fees. One's belongings are inspected rather than examined, and are never dumped out, rummaged, or crumpled to facilitate a rigid overhauling. Tobacco ana cigars are sought (50 cigars or cigarettes free) and the traveler is asked if he has any. Any attempt to smuggle opium or the utensils for smoking it (strictly forbidden entrance to the country) may provoke seri- ous trouble. Personal effects and furniture of foreigners coining to reside in Japan are admitted free of duty if they have been used and are not for sale. While it is usually wise to superintend personally the inspection of one's belongings in transit through the custom-house, the runners for the best- known hotels are trustworthy, and often are able to attend to such matters more expeditiously and satisfactorily than the traveler himself. Courtesy on the part of the stranger is a valuable asset in custom-house transactions.

Commercial Travelers are not taxed in Japan, and they can

have the import duties on samples used for the purpose of

collecting orders refunded upon reexportation, if they will

make their noshes known at ,the port of entry at the time of en-

' CX)MHERGIiUi TBAVEtERS

nflHfCKd Eoods. Samples, which owing to their n&Minwuuii beoraly ideDtified, must be marked Id .wmc way. CnuliDiiii necesBary in declaring firearms, as a, special permit it re^uirad before a Japanese can own one, and a revolver found in the pOBSEssian of a person without a permit might lead to Umrtpaff- mt inveatigatioDS. When an appreciable quantity^ mtoer- dkandiae is imported, one unaequamted with the inbioaclv of tile new tariff tnay effect a considerable saving ia duties t^ baring the gooda passed in by a reputable shipping bn^w; hj procuring a copy of the latest (English) edition m the bn- port Tariff of Japan with the customs lawa and lepulationa jmst about 2 yen at any bookstore) ; or by eonsulting soroe Dosiness friend before making the declaration. _^ere azo preferential duties (aubjoct to change), and by having a CmU- fisate of Origin accompany imports one may, lOOTided ho I knows something of the privileges granted to ttie qiedaUy . &TDred contracting Powera, eave a third or more of tlioduUes ' messed. Many articles pay duty according to weight; otbm >K aeaeseed ad valorem. .

. ' As an aid to commercial travelers small lists of the ohM ilmport commission houses will be found under the Tok

a Kobe headings. Much of the import (and export) b^ — „

■' — e jQffpi^h,cmnnii8MaD houses, wliich act as intomedi-

ir shipper and th<3 conauniw.

s demand loajj-timf

_ „ , ._-^ o J proce-

dtm, thnetoe, ia to quote toe lowest caah prices (f .o.b. factory V aeaport) to Ote leeident ocMnmisdon merchant, ^d display Mm^es in Ub showtuoiu. The latter draws up- a 'wo-forma Vroux, whieh indudes ooat, frraght, inmiranoe, cu^toina duties, etc., aada taa conunisHon, and aKreee on the iH-.ce8 which he wiU quote to the trade, eitlier with cost, insurance, and freight {tetmed 'CHf ' prices), delivered at the custom-houae quay, or m the buyer's waierocHn. The hnp(»t«r agrees to pay for tlie ■»ds tbroiif^ ft draft on the bank at 30, 60, or 90 days (after ttHjr axe ahinwd), and often ^lows his customer from 3 to 6 ■iKiths (covered by notes or contra<rta) in which to pay for thsn. The tzaveler then oalle on the merchants, accompanied W.KB Bndish-epeaking jMtaneae hanio (salesman), who quotes tOB laid-down prices and invitefl the prospective buyer to mqiect liie aanqilee. Bufdness ia usually done on a 2} or 5 per ggnt UH^n. If there is & cash discount of 2 to 6 per cent, this b aometinteB sidit witli the customer. Certun of the native flruM ore wealthy and trustworthy. The Japanese are ke^i DOHMaB men, Init they oonduot their operations with a decree wnesB wnioh recks not of the value of time; and they will -juried. Tl* Tidous and ioialeadin^ atatemeat tbtil aW iuMtmbuidv rnre dkboaeat a ae uigust aa it ia \uitnie>

GUIDES

There is no lack of graceless rascals among the Japanese, but the proportion of honest men is apparently about the same as that of any other civitized country.

The Abacus, or sorohan (Chinese: awanpan, or 'coimting- board') , is used largely in arithmetical calculations by Japanese. With this early Phenician or Grecian instrument, the solu- tion of intricate problems in foreign exchange, and other propo- sitions are found quickly and ingeniously. The commercial traveler will find it to his interest to learn the operation of it, as a knowledge of how to read it only is useful at times. The sorohan is a shallow case or frame of various lengths and widths, crossed longitudinally by a bar which divides it into two unequal compartments. These are crossed vertically by (usually 13) wires or bamboo rods, with 1 ball (2 in the Chmese instrument) on each stick above the transversal bar, and 5 below. The upper bead stands for 5 units, and each of the lower ones for 1 unit, so that there are 10 units on eadb stick. When the balls on any rod are taken for units, those next to the right stand for tens, the third for hundreds, and so on. Simple cmculations in addition and subtraction are done on una machine with accuracy and speed, but if an error be made the whole must be performed again, since the result appears only when the sum is finished.

Guides (Annawiin; sendachi; but better known as * guides') can be hired at almost any of the hotels or Tourist Agencies, — the latter making it a part of their business to supply them. There are numerous Guide Associations, or Guilds, the mem- bers of which speak English and Japanese (sometimes a httle French). Their pay is 4 yen a day for 1 or 2 persons (50 sen additional per person when there are more than 2 in a party), besides rly. fare (2d or 3d cl.) and jinriki hire. They are sup- posed to provide their own food : as a rule they prefer riding to walking. Some are honest, and in certain cases are useful; others are incompetent and are noteworthy for their unblush- ing ignorance of the history and ancient customs of their own people, for the inaccuracy of the information supplied to their employers, for an ingrained and exasperating tendency to overpay and Hip' their nationals at tneir patron's expense (thereby acquiring if not a direct conmiission, at least a re- flected glory), and for an apparently ineradicable propensity to collect a * squeeze' on everything bought through them or at shops where they act as interpreters. Some are guilty of black- listing reputable shops, hotels, and resorts where a percentage c^ their master's bill is not paid over to them, and, by belittling them, induce their patrons to go to places where commiseions can be counted upon. For unless proprietors accede to the demands, and overcharge patrons for the benefit of the guide, guesta and cuatomera are tak^i elsewhere. This corrupt prao-

GUIDES xxvii

tiee hafl become so intolerable that certain hotel-keepers, trudesmen, and goyemment officials are leagued in an effort to abate the nuisance. Correct values of Japanese curios are so fittle undefBtood by many strangers that dishonest guides have been known to induce their employers to pay absurd prices for alleged works of art and pocket half the excess over and above the right price. Because of this predatory habit many of the best cfealers will not permit certain guides on their premises. In other places prices go up at sight of them, to the disadvant- ue of purdbasers. As a rule no confidence should be placed in t£e guide's judgment of antiques, and even less in his criticism of t^ contents of this Guidebook. It may be accepted as a safe axiom that the majority of guides occupy a low place in the esteem of cultivated Japanese, a fact which travelers will do wdl to bear in mind in cases where an interpreter is needed on ddicate missions or at interviews with prominent men. Intel- figent, bi-Iingual Japanese can always be obtained for such services. (Comp. p. cxvi.)

So prevalent is the (erroneous) idea that Japan is a difficult ootmtiry to travel in that some timid persons employ guides at 4 yen a day to conduct them about the streets of Yokohama aiid T0ky5, and to go with them to such well-known places as NikkO, Kybto, Kobe, etc. In all of these, English is widely spoken, and all the best hotels have information bureaus con- ducted by helpful men who can supply a local English-speaking puide at a moment's notice. At some of the hotels in the interior the alert management supplies guides free or at a small cost. Others have trained the local coolies into a combination of efficient guide and porter willing to walk all day and carry a 50-lb. load beside, for yen 1.50 or thereabouts. They are more familiar with local conditions than guides brought (at an ex- pense of salary and rly. fare) from a distance, and unlike the . latter are not averse to making pack-horses of themselves. Certain TOkyO students fond of adventure spend their summer vacation at popular resorts in the interior of the country, and earn a little money as waiters in the hotels, as guides, and in otho' capacities. As a rule they are guileless, optimistic, cheer- ful, and mtelligent, and they make thoroughly enjoyable com- panions on long tramps. At other places alert bo3rs eager to earn a jfen and to show beauty spots to travelers will be found. The rising generation is so eager to learn English that likable, Iffigjit-facea country lads sometimes attach themselves to strangers and act as self-constituted guides merely for the pleasure derived from showing the local sights to appreciative persons and for the English practice they get. They oiten re-

fnsefeeff, and, when made to take them, do so reluctantW and etamefacedlv. ^

/aes/ocomotron aa well. While mteWigent

;«viii GUIDES

and trustworthy guides are unquestionably useful to strangers undertaking long trips in the interior, — particularly to those unacquainted with the language or customs of the country, — almost any self-reliant, amiable, and adaptable person with no more knowledge of the vernacular than he can extract from a good pocket phrasebook can, with this Guidebook, travel unattended and with perfect safety to any place in the Mikar do's realm, and not fail to get the information he seeks. By traveling thus on his own resources he will gain a knowledge of the people and local conditions that he would not otherwise adciuire; not to mention the saving of from 6 to 10 yen a day m guide hire and unnecessary fees. It is usually under such cir- cumstances that the traveler gets an inkling of the truer and better nature of the Japanese; each one of whom, at sight of a solitary stranger, seems possessed of a genuine, ungrudging, and entirely unselfish desire to help him on his way. It thus happens that such a one often gets better treatment than he expects, and is rarelv at a loss for some one to help him out of difficulties — if sli^t temporary inconveniences can be so classed. Women traveling alone might not find the conditions so satisfying.

The custom of certain foreigners of giving their guides ample funds in advance to pay current expenses is almost as incom- prehensible to foreign residents as the equally reprehensible one of treating them as eciuals (rather than as servants); of dining with them; accepting their advice where to go, etc. Such demonstrations of equality amaze thoughtful Japanese, and often cause them to alter their opinion of the foreigner's standing. The traveler should study the Guidebook, make up his mind where he wishes to go and what he wants to see, then instruct his courier accordingly. Remonstrances should be discountenanced, and all impertinence checked at the outset. Should the guide ask for a testimonial on the termination of hif agreement, this should, in justice to other travelers, be truthful and moderate, else a deceitful rascal may be confirmed in his faults. The traveler should never go where a guide insists upon taking him, nor should he accept his advice as to the right prices to be paid at tea-houses, etc. The old custom of expect- ing the provident to pay for the shortcomings of the improvi- dent is deeply rooted in the Japanese mind. All Occidentals are supposed to be wealthy, and able and willing to pay con- siderably more for a service or an article than would a poor native. The observant stranger will have this curious habit brought sharply to his notice frequently while traveling in Japan. In some places foreigners are charged five or six times as much as a native would be, in the belief that they neither know nor care. Travelers to rural Japan and to places off the beaten track of travel are frequently astonished at the low prJces charged in shops or inns, where no distinction is made

i detwpen toKignere and natives. Thoy art abo 1 prised al the Wfty pricea risp after a fonjgn fc jaakA by i courier has parsed that waf. Befon man For an important journey, consult the liotd leam if the euidc'a robuat imafdnatioti 19 KCOnipBiueu uy lacca. The latMf should also be questioned shrewdly as to bia knowl- edgeoflteplaces tobevisitnd. A good icmeral rule is to i^floe but nuM credence in his windy pitfaseology or in the authen- iidt! of tus information. One can always rid one's adf of the miFelMme attention of a self-conBtitutad pitde by a threat to ippesJ tfl the police. — It remains to be eud that the aim of tb«imfer is to help the ecoQomieally-inclHied tourist to travel H cheaply as possible in a country which n all too rai^dly Mfuiring a reputation for high prii'ca. Deeoriptioiis of oertain ^doMB have been detailed bo that ^frangers may have no difficulty in visiting and understaniiitig them.

C. Hotels. Inns. Tea-Houses and Reslaiiranta. JapaneH Pood. Houses. Furnished Houses. Ttpt. LawidiT. Hotels IhoUm). The standard of excellence of the hotels ot Japan ia riaing steadily, and the best eHtablishmenta now com- pare favorably with similar high-nlaas i^aces in Europe and America. It ia the aim of the Hotel Asaoirialjon — to which many of the hotelmen belong — tii make the hotels of the Empire moT« and more comfortable for, and acoeptable to, foreign travelera: and the attractive hostebiea of fokohamn, Tokyo, Kobe, Kyoto, ,ind Nura — all managed by forugners or by Eoglish-Bpeaking Japanese who have livecf abroad, — usually surprise tourists by their modem e<^^ipment and com- fort. Certain of them are peeuliarlv pleasing to the man of taste, as they suggest the tranquiltity and cheer of the old tavema of Colonic times. There are at present 200 hotels in the Empire, with S.'JOO rooms sind lorlgings for 5000 persona, and tlie number grows steadily. The aim of the hotel-keeper is to pronde (food food and comfort rather than architectural tffgaidar. eEeosmolt^cal and climatic considerations have menaanb entered larsely into the construction of the present- Slj hotw, and tiie a)menoe of that exag^rated and useless IniaiT nmr audi a pronounced charactenstic of some Occi- deatu botds, ii of direct advant^e to the traveler of modest ■MDB, once be is not rapected to pay heavily for somethiuK iHtiA he can natber eat nor cany away with him. The stand- iirdB of (deanli&es, punctuality, tmatworthinesa, personal ~" — ■* — *" TMttB, tatA an ever-present eagerness to make ■T ooim<^t«>le, are higher than those of many Euro- Itds. In Ja[>ait the manager meets, knows, and looks nrj one of iaa gnsets; and by so doing, makes each one 1 at hmne tluii at iRvsent seems possible in other >" Vhat.MOW of ttaa batelM Iselc is arcfaiteotuial imp

jxx HOTEL RATES .

portance, is uounLerbalancat by exquisite views t^^^^^^f^ mountain, obtainable from the windows and the ev^^^^^-^** balconies. To the average traveler these are more ple*^^^^ <5r massive onyx hallways (which might conie down w'tB^^^^^^ effect during an earthquake) and red plush fittiUKS, T^^^^j^' are more in evidence than elevators, but as few of t>-^^^/*_ are more than 2-3 storieB, the lack of the latt<ir ''« mt f^^_. -'* It is to the credit of hotelmen generally thruu.

L

p__j (and menials) of alleged fire t-clasB hotels io *|v^

The httle cheala and exasperating overcharges are heT^^f- spiouDUB by their absence. Bills are payable at the desk (exnept in native inns) and arc not allowed t. sented by covetous servants expectant of life annuitJaS fugitive services of doubtful worth. Tlip managers, i Hervants, oonduct the botelB, and no one is allowed to — -__ ■^^■ the departing ^;ueet for tips. In Japan one rarely leaves a '^^•4^ with that feelmg of diecoitifiture so well undcretood l^ t^^^fl velers of modest means and a well-tiefined sense of iiia^ Calculated attempts to overcharge in bills are happily n It ia customary tor a traveler to learn the given nair" "' room or table-boyj and iiall him by it; or by the i

'BoV or (more politely) 'Boy stin.' Undersis^ed boys i..__ „ ,.

erallv called by, and answer willingly to, the word C/tiiadf n«^ 'small' (pronounced cftfc-ifio'A).

The most progressive hotels are now equipped with Infor tion Bureaus conducted by English-speaking clei' of considerable help to travelers. Certain of t monthly magazines, in English, devoted to the trave interests, along with rly. time-cards, local maps, etc. i_ also purchase tickets for guests, attend to the checking luggage, and perform numerous valuable services fret cause of the lack of evening entertaiimients in English, t. of the hotel managers plan enjoyable conoerts, juggling ei tions, musical entertainments, dances, and the like, and t). „ are given in the dining-rooni, free to guests. The Orand Hob at Yokohama celebrates the arrival of a transpacific at^u ' afaip with a dance and musicale, arranged in honor of t. arriving guests. New- Year dances with their attendant feetiv^ ties are holiilay features of certain of the hotels, and duriiij^V Christmas Week rooms must be spoken for in advance. At tii'~ ™ time the Miyako Hotel at Kyoto is thronged with foreign raf dents from Kobe and other cities, and much jollity reigns.

Rates; Most of the hotels are conducted on the 'AmeriBtUi Plan.' in which a fixed charge (ran^n^ frota S t<o 20 yea] la BMde per day for room and board, witVvTio vTTiVaV\&ie«i»»^ i^esotaervice. Arrangementaontbe'BMio^eaivVSMi.; ■w'«b«v

HOTEL RATES

Mi to meui one price for lodgings and a separate mah, can be made at any of them. The scarcity of Miestaurants or cai6s in American or Continental ■one msy dine well, makes it advisable for travelers ■ir lod^ngs on the American plan, which is prac- Jncd throi^out the country. The rates usually liteably more than one gets in hotels else^^here; j|g::«offee, with toast ana jam, or marmalade, or fed in tlie traveler's room about 6 a.m., and an Dyui breakfast in the dining-room between 7 and (Chinese, tecfct fan — * to eat rice' ; 'meal-time') is 12 to 2.30 P.M., and comprises the dishes custom- lerican hotel. At 4 p.m. or thereafter, hot tea and ioe) is served either in one's room or on the hotel I Is included in the daily rate. Dinner (or supper) rm on a larger scale of the midday meal. Baths ' in some hotels; hot mineral water in others) are Bome places coal is charged for at 25 sen a scuttle; B is required to sign a chit ^ for each bucket, but its diarged against Mm. The idea is to keep a chedc Hits and make the guest economical of the coal. le purpose, chits are required in some places for

ing for lodgings the traveler should always ask ioe includes. Almost any of the hotels will rent Mit board (prices on application), and table-board furnished if wanted (75 to 100 yen a month). The rge for single meals is: breakfast 75 sen to 1 yen; I to ¥1.25; dinner ¥1.50 to ¥2. Most of the l^ests by the week or month at a reduction of the tnd when 2 persons occupy one room a lower price le. The most popular places are usually filled in sasons (March-June, and Sept.-Nov.), at whdch well to arrange for lodgings in advance. Rates ig these periods, but in the off scjison, when tourist mparatively light, better terms can sometimes be xoellent feature of the hotels is that the room-boys lo valet service in addition to their other duties (no see p. liv), and clean, press, and fold clothes; care lats, and wraps; prepare the bath, assist one to ge tne flowers on the table; and make themselves so 9eful and indispensable that Americans marvel at i siiort-si^teaness that excludes such admirable im the United States, — where perhaps no single

aftd^8 (Hindustani, chiuhi, a ' note of indebtedness '; a ' note > used extensively in the Far East in lieu of ready money. tai stores, dubs, etc., are signed for by means of tnem; chi^ Kb out with letters or memoranda for the signature of the re- MBthbr-aecounts are checked from the chits attached to them. W^iima ihb place of I O U's and ffimilar obligations.

xirii HOTEL ROOMS— FOOD

question Bo Texea and ages American women as the exaeperat

ing servant problem.

The Rooms differ but little from tboee of American hoteli excepting that man;? ot them do not have set bowls or runntn water. Ab the N. winds bring chilling qualities in wintw, an the breezes from the B. a refreshing coolness in aummer, a roon with a souUiem exposure will be found the beat at all seaaon — particuiarly in winter, when it is flooded with warm bud ehine. Open fares are more common than etovea.

The Pood in many of the first-class hotels is excellent, a,n< coverB a wider range than that often served in the highest priced estabiishmente of Europe. Wild boar, venison, pheat ant, wild ducks, quail, frog'a-legs; an astonishing variety c delicious fish, including lobsters, terrapin, and oysters; musb rooms, strawberries, asparagus, and many minor dainties ai much commoner in Japan than in the U.S.A., and are se« frequently on the tables of the best hotels. Oeiiidental oooko^ appeals to the excellent Japancw chefs, and they acquire th intricate praccsseB of preparing foreign-style dishes with singu lar readiness. TranalationB of foreign cookbooks exist. Dish« in the native style of cookery are rarely served at hotels und« foreign management, and in order to get them one must go to native inn or restaurant. Milk is classed us an e?ctra in man; hotels, and must be paiii for at 10 nen & glass. In justice to th hotel management travelers should beiar in mind that all th Australian, Canadian, European, and American imported stufl (wines, jams, biscuits, pickles, cheeses, and ahosl of tinned ani packed proviBions) are taxed heavily at the custom-house, ui< that this large and necessary expense must be taken into cor Bideration when rates are quoted; also that the butter ani cheese (called Uokoditte cheese) mode in Yezo Island ar superior to some of the miported. In many hotels the excelleo idea of numbering the it«ins on the menu is carried out Those table-boys or maids who may not imderstand Englis! learn the numbers (the Japanese equivalents of which th traveler is advised to aocuJrc), and by citing these, the travele is served with his selection.

Cert^n of the minor hotels have yet to realize the impoi tance of having Beparat* toilet-rooms for men and women, an<

furnishing good soap instead of the cheap, lurid, home-mad

In these places one should always inspect the unde

the bed, as this often serves tor as many travelers a

,fail to note its lack of freshness. The most prominen

' 1 in the port cities maintain speedy power launches tha

^, . incoming ships, and land passengers and their luggag

-quicker than the shipB' boata. The English -speaking runner

Jm n?(Ae name o/tiie CO tel embroidered on ftie\icapa,wMle.ih

^ggagecooUea (tiinmku) ueually wear bWeWoneea-wiftisoi!

fiacufgiiiahiae mark ax tbe oentei of tbfc bwit. — '»« Ai

I

HOTEL SERVICE zzxiii

dc addresses of the different hotels have been added to the jBtences to them, as an aid to travelers who may wish to wire farooms. — While thefts from hotel rooms are rare, both for $tty and to remove temptation from those who mia^t other- laa remain honest, money and valuables should not be toosed needlessly.

, ^aracteristic and delightful features of certain of the ■trior cities and towns are hotels in semi-forei^ style; phfling combinations of foreign hostelries and native inns, BtL the comforts of the former and the peculiar charm of the Jrtter. They make a special bid for foreign travelers, and serve D food, in ways no less dainty and satisfactory than those seaport hotels. The quaintly garbed, sloe-eyed Japanese sns who bow the traveler a deep welcome at the door, ter to him like an attentive nurse while he is beneath the m's Foof , and bid him a sorrowful saydnara when his .___less jinriki bears him awav from the hospitable porch, are Riy pleasing remembrances of these attractive plac^. Hotels i this class Oike the Miyako at Ky5to, and the Kanaya at :5) are customarily so situated that one may enjoy deught- ad scarcely forgettable views of mountain, valley, town, or ^rom their glassed-in verandas, and to the average tourist ' manifest pictiu*esqueness far outweighs what Siey may

in luxurious fittings and massiveness. A felicitous blend

f tf the Orient and the Occident is displayed in their architeo- toral designs, where florid and quaintly sculptured temple- fittings aid in the interior ornamentation. Balconies, etc., in tl^ style of those of ancient palaces enrich the exterior. In RRne of them one may, by taking up his lodgings in the Japan- oe wing, enjoy the pleasure of living in Japanese fashion but dining in Western style. Such suites are usually furnished amply, and in consequence are cheaper than those of the European quarter, but they are no less comfortable, particu- larly when supplied with foreign beds.

The proprietors of these places (as well as of many excellent coontr^r inns) usually give them their personal attention, and tiie limits to which they will go to make a foreign guest com- fortable are oftentimes astonishing. If the breakfast hour be 7 o'clock and the traveler wishes to depart at 5, the entire household is stirring at 4, for the average Japanese host would think it rude, indeed, and inhospitable, to allow a guest to leave, no matter how early, without a hot breakfast to cheer 1dm on his way. The trouble involved is neither considered, nor charged for. Lafcadio Heam mentions (Glimpses of Un- fomUictr Japan^ p. 130) the landlord of an inn who prepared the hot water for his bath, then insisted upon washing him with his own hands; while the wife, painfully in doubt about her ability topleaaehim, cooked a charming repast for two men and apo\o- riMl for not bezs^ able to offer him morel

nodv JAPANESE INNS

Travelers may wish to remember that certain hotds, toirist* agents, guides, and }inriki-men work in with one anotiier^and laud tneir connections to the detriment of the outsider. The clerks in certain hotels hold financial interests in others, And are therefore biased in their opinions. When one is uncolun where one wishes to lodge, the hotel manager, not the desk, ^ould be consulted. When possible the traveler should nake up his mind where he will stop and not allow his judgment to be influenced. The jinriki-man will sdways take him to tiie - place which pays him the largest commission. Great caxft has been employed in the selection of the hotels and inns re* "^wnz- mended m the Guidebook, and the tourist will find then' '**•'- best in each place. Whosoever warns the traveler that al '.■^' J'^ hotels of the interior are poor, and that the food is uneat .'^**^"* should be discredited. ifuart

Japanese Inns (yadoyaj hatagoya, etc.) are^ be fooD^-.^. every city and town of any size, ana while tlieu" special com- forts do not appeal to the taste of all Occidentals, tne best em- body manv pleasing and distinctive features — pMiiculaH y those in which the fine old native customs are u'lcnange^j^j" the native courtesy unspoiled. (Comp. Houses, p. xlvii.) '.■^*^ . the innkeeper {yadoya no teishu) and his helpiul wife {*\q^j^^ san) do not always speak English, they are often devoti - : p*", self to their guests, and make each believe himself the mobi, honored one. Albeit the Japanese consider the well-appointed yadoya peculiarly comfortable and satisfying, foreigners fijid much in them to criticize. To many the food b illusive ; the fleas inordinately hungrjr ; the toilet arrangements abominable iwd suggestive of typhoid; the lack of chairs, beds, and other niture inconvement; and the native indifference to privacy exasperating. Westerners do not, as a rule, relish the 'dea of having giggfing nesans (lit., * elder sisters 0, or serving-maids, traipse unannounced through their apartments at all hours, whether one be asleep or awake; dressed, undressing, or un- dressed ; nor do they want women to scrub them in their baths I Be a yadoya ever so good, it grows very tiresome to foreigners after a few days spent in it, and lenethy sojourns should be planned only for places where Occidental conveniences are obtainable.

Owing to the great fires which so often scourge Japanese cities, it is diflEL- eult to give definite information about cvenr inn in the Empire and expect it to hold true between editions of the Guidebook. Even where the names are given, it is well for one to ask hotel managers or innkeei>ers which is the best in the place to be visited, since the management of old inns change and new ones start up to meet the increasing demands of travel. As a rule the new ones aim to introduce comforts that will appeal to foreigners, and in this oense are sometimes more desirable than the more conservative ones.

The regulation inns are customarily of one invariable type,

but differing as to size, location, and surroundings. Many of

ihem use well-water for drinking and cooking purposes. At

RATES AT INNS

Buddhiat settlements like that of Kdya-^an (p. 511) the trav- eler must lodge at a monastery and be served by the monks in eharKe. Except in very small and remote places there is seldom any oifficulfy in securing a lodging ana food. There are no iims in Japan where the traveler is waylaid and robbed; and perhaps none where it is unsafe to lodge.

Man^ innkeepers now try to attract foreign tourists by call- ing; their places hotels j and it has been our aim to correct the misconception where possible, and to make the necessary dis- tinction between them. Those who thus advertise their tav- en&fi^have in some cases equipped them with a so-called semi- fqr^Kn wing furnished with poor beds, stained-pine wash- f^ Tids, and tawdry fitments for which several times the usual inBi. ^ IB asked. In such cases it is often more economical to («ii.v.Age a room in the Japanese part of the house and have whatever forei^ food one can get served in it. Certain of the b^ purely native inns have in reserve a small dining-table, ehairs, koives, forks, spoons, aged butter, pathetic coffee, and other things considered essential to the comfort of foreigners. Mi^jc 18 fast becoming necessary to the Japanese and it can be pftiiined in many out-of-the-way places. It is usually sold

'*Xh^4^) ^ small bottles (bin) con taming ) pint (6 sen), and if die Innkeeper has n't it he will send out ana get it. By addine BBlt and sugar to the always obtainable hot boiled rice, and poiiTing milk over it, a palatable substitute for porriage is obtained. Some inns possess a skillet in which eggs, potatoes, aji&''h%f-4ekki * (usually very tough) can be fried. Boiled eggs are;^lways to be had, and bread can be toasted over the *;^Kichi. A careful register is kept at inns of foreign guests (so :': lit the police may keep track of strangers), and prudent trav-

* ele^.will write only precise information on the paper handed t6 tUem, avoiding levity and statements which they may at any time be called upon to confirm. They will also do well to follow the native custom of carrying their own towels (teniigui) and soap {shabon)^ as not a few of the natives suffer from ophthalmia and skm-diseases. Some inns make it a custom to present departing guests with a pair of soft sleazy cotton tow- els stamped with some pretty pattern in blue, or with the crest or the ideographic name of the hotel. Paper fans or knickknacks sometimes take the place of these. Foreign towels asked for at inns are apt to be charged for at 50-75 <en each. Valuable belongings should never be taken to, or left at, native inns, because of the constant danger of fire. If one is obliged to leave luggage, one should see that it is stored in the fireproof godown.

Rates vary with the standing of the house, its reputation for special dishes, the popularity of the serving-maids, and the eupidity of the proprietor. Some innkeepers, devoid ol ^i »«pro/Mv^7V7J3/ii3(/o//u^urepossibilities, charge ioiei^ei^

JAPANESE INNS'

prices which, not high when viewed from an Occidental stand- point, are absurdly out of proportion to those asked of natives — who know what rates ought to be. While respect for the Japanese libel laws makes it imperative to be guarded in one'g references to those places where the traveler is robbed under the guise of exchange, the reader will have no difficulty in understanding the allusions to be found scattered throughout the Guidebook ; they are the result of personal experience sup- plemented by that of others, and they will be found trust- worthy. The prudent traveler will always ask what the prices include, before he agrees to them. In traveling it is also a good idea to carry a letter of introduction from one innkeeper to another, as this often serves as a check on extortion. The hon- est hotelmen throughout the Empire are trying hard to better conditions and make travel easier and cheaper for tourists, as well as to inspire the less intelligent classes with a realizing sense of what is due to foreign guests.

The customary charge in an ordinary inn for hatago, which is understood to comprise supper, bed, and breakfast (tiffin is usually extra), ranges from ¥1.50 to ¥3.50, with an extra charge for special dishes. In some places guests are asked what class they prefer; a modest room with plain food, or better apartments with food to match. The higher rate (¥3.50) may include a small suite overlooking a pretty parden (always preferable to rooms overlooking the street) with 2 or 3 more dishes at meals. Foreigners are asked if they will have Japa- nese or foreign food (see p. xxxii). Unless special, high-priced dishes are demanded, the former will be found cheaper, as it is nearly always ready and requires no special preparation. The best food is not alwavs to be had in the most pretentious places. In certain modest inns, where the rooms are as bare as a monk's cell, and the general appearance of austerity might argue a strict economy, there will often come, as an agreeable surprise, dainty food served in dishes that delight the lover of beautiful porcelain or lacquer. Later the traveler may learn that the place enjoys fame for some savory specialty — eels boiled in soy, broiled crajrfish, stewed octopus, buckwheat- macaroni, or the like. Many of the inns do, in fact, specialize in foods peculiar to certain localities, and are noted for native dainties in or out of season. In some of them one may select live fish from a pool and have it cooked to order. The better- class inns, removed from the beaten track of travel, can usu- ally supply chicken, indifferent roast-beef, and beefsteak, while those near the sea always serve delicious fish in a variety of ways, or broiled lobsters and shrimps (which should not be eaten until the alimentary canal is removed).

Many inns do not display signs in foreign languages, and are

therefore not easy to locate. Those which face rly . stations are

generally fluah with the street, and have an upper balcony.

JAPANE^ INNS zzzvii

Others sit considerably back from the street, and are some- times approached through a mediseval gateway (leading to a passagewajr flanked by fences or houses) hunp with lanterns, adorned with a sanded electric-light globe with the name in black on it, and surmounted by a chevaux-defrUe of split bam- boo. Some inns are lighted by acetylene gas or electricity; in others a lamp or a candle lights the traveler to bed. Not un- frequently countiy inns occupy beautiful sites on hills, or near rivers or the sea, in the midst of charming gardens, with fine views. The entrance is most always a roofed vestibule with a well-trodden earthen floor backed by a raised platform about 20 in. high, forming at once a seat and the outer extension of the grouna floor. A scattered line of shoes, sandals, and geta belonging to guests usually lie along it, and at one side is a cup- board where umbrellas and footwear are deposited. A big drop octagon clock on the wall, a low desk, an hibctchiy and a pile of cushions generally complete the office equipment. The trav- eler's jinnki customarily deposits him in the vestibule, at the edgfi of the platform, beneath the overhang of the roof. Shouts of Okyaku san C honorable visitor ') apprise the master and the maids that a guest is arriving, and all hurry forward to receive him, uttering cries of welcome and bowing glossy black heads to the floor. As the traveler sits on the platform, a serv- ant removes his shoes, and others divest him of his wraps. Shoes are rarely cleaned, and if they be wet or muddy thejr are left untouched. (Comp.p.lxxvii.) Habitual frequenters of inns often provide themselves with foot-coverings, to slip over shoes and thus be able to wear them to the apartment. Without them one mustdon the heellesaslippers furnished, or go to one's room unshod. As the master of the tavern calls out the number of the room, the maids conduct one either down a long passage- way on the same floor or up flights of highly polished, slippery stairs without guard-rails and placed customarily at a dan- gerous angle. Unless otherwise instructedj foreigners are generally conducted to the best suite, consistmg of two spac- ious rooms separated by sliding wall-panels (Jusuma; kara- kami). These constitute the partitions throughout the house, each floor of which can thus be quickly converted into one vast room. As there are neither locks nor catches, and as it is the custom for maids to enter rooms at any and all times, without knocking, privacy is lacking entirely. In high-class inns suites are marked by elegant and striking simplicity. They are devoid of every comfort essential to Occidentals, but quite satisfy the Japanese, who spend hours squatting in them or lying flat on their stomachs, with heels in tne air.

The /uswma are sometimes decorated richly with pure gold- leaf; with landscape or other scenes, and framed in highly poUflhed wood. The pillars of the slightly raised alcove (JLoko- 1) are of grained or gnarled wood, plain or carved. TYie aftk

xxyviii JAPANESE INNS

or paper kakemono, or scroll, which hangs against the waU portrays usually one of the Seven Gods of Good Luck, a Chin- ese landscape copied from a costly original by some famous painter, portraits of the Sixteen Rakan, a text in classic Chin- ese from Mencius or Confucius, a picture of Dammar a maxim from the Buddhist Sutra, or a poem in the handwriting of some defimct celebrity. Beneath, on the dais of highly polished keyaki-wood rests a bronze or porcelain vase, with a sprig of something green, or a delicate flower. Extreme care is often given to the arrangement of this, which always dips to the correct angle, and carries some significant sentiment. A shelf built into the wall at one side of the alcove affords space for clothing which one may not wish to place on the floor. There is no stick of furniture, and often not a peg on which to hang a pocket-mirror. A campaniform or a neart-shaped window, defended by bamboo rods and perhaps a small shoji or paper- covered screen (garasu shojiy or glass windows are rare), or maybe a narrow, sliding ventilator above the fusuma, admit light and air. Foreigners will do well to choose a room with such a vent, as the shutters which run the lensth of the outer balconv are slid into position about 10 p.m. (the police insist upon their being closed) — often with a great clatter — and successfully exclude all air. The traveler who cannot sleep without fresh air, in a tightly sealed apartment^ may demand that a space be left in the shutters opposite his room. The native distaste for pure air is marked.

In the seneral run of inns the upper rooms are the most desirable, but those houses with pretty landscape gardens not unfrequently have attractive ground-floor suites with bits of the garden allotted to them. The simplest rooms are often rendered very dainty and artistic by the little touches which the Japanese know how to apply with such deftness. The ceil- ings may be formed of extraordinarily wide and beautifully grained cryptomeria wood of a fine gray color traversed by a black stripe. The thin boards of the partition above the /iwuma are pierced customarily with some pictorial design ex- hibiting a few skillfully incised lines suggesting Fuji-san, with storks winging their slow flight across the snow-capped cone; a flight of sparrows; peacocks standing on the limb of a flowering cherry tree; or a marshy place to which wild ducks are descending. The floors are covered with soft straw mats, and extreme tidiness is the salient characteristic. Although it is considered slovenly to wash in the bedroom, innkeepers will often capitulate to foreign eccentricity and order a brass basin of hot water placed on the balcony. Wash-basins stand in a row near the centre of the inn on the lower floor, and hither guests are supposed to repair to make their toilet (and, in the ease of foreigners, be the cynosure of all eyes) . One should al- wayBiiwist upon having a room as remote as possible from the

JAPANESE INNS

offensive ch$ziir4Hi, or henjo (w.c.)i which, although placed ordinarily at the end of a long passage, is nevertheless the most prominent object in the house. The neaans usually con- duct strangers to it (poor toilet-paper), and sometimes remain until driven off (a custom rather than a willful offense against propriety) .

While the traveler is fitting himself to his quarters a brazen MMchi of pleasing, artistic shape, with handles formed of Korean lion-heads crunching rings, is brought in and placed in a convenient place; new and clean charcoal twigs are placed on the live coals occupying a sort of glowing crater in a minia- ture Fuji-yama of fine, soft ash, and are started to burn with a great scattering of small sparks. Exaggerated iron chop-sticks are stuck upright in the ashen cone, and a quaint iron tea- kettle is filled with water and set over the iron tripod to boil. A smaller hibcuihi for smokers is placed in another part of the room, and a dainty tray with handleless teacups, a porcelain pot, and a metal canister of tea is placed near the big hihachi (which should always be put out of the room before retiring). Floor mats to sit upon, a beautiful lacquered box of sweets, or kioashi (called tezukuriU home-made), and other creature comforts are soon added, along with a neatly folded dressing- gown (yukata), towels, and sandals. A maid or the landlord iM)w presents a slip of paper on which one must write one's name, profession, age, sex, condition in life, destination, and provenience. Stripping and donning the gaudy bath-kimono one is conducted to the bath (usually at the end of a long, draughty corridor), where one will be fortunate if one gets an individual tub not already occupied by men and women bath- ers. In resorts where there are mineral springs, the tubs con- tain flowing water; in places where this commodity is re- latively scarce, it is apt not to be fresh. Unless the door is secured in some manner, one is apt to be interrupted by others who come to share the tub. Sitting on the small stool near the pool or tub, one soaps one's self, pours water over the body with the dipper, then enters the water for a short immersion. The Japanese custom is take no notice of one's bathing com- panions, be they men or women, unless one is inclined to con- verse. A survey of one's physical characteristics is apparently never thought of.

Food is served in the guest's room on a lacquered tray, gen- erally at whatever hour one may wish it. The three meals are marked by considerable sameness, and consist ordinarily of fish in some form; tea, boiled eggs or a sweet omelette; two Boups in small covered lacquer bowls; chopped relishes and sliced pickles; and steaming rice taken from a wooden tub holding about a peck, beside which the nesan kneels ready to Rffll the china bowl. One of the soups may be made oi ?i'^, "^ikQihitB of yegetahles Boating in it; or of lobster, ox sea^eein

xl JAPANESE INNS

!n which case it is amazingly thin and unpalatable; the other of beans, bean-curd or something of that nature. Salt is not providea unless asked for. Many of the dishes are cooked in 8oy^ a tiny dish of which is supplied for dipping bits into before eatmg them. Certain of the inns serve deticious bamboo- shoots: others buckwheat-macaroni, or boiled eels or other specialties. The raw carp cut into thin, pinkish slices should be avoided. One can usually get a spoon and a fork to replace the chop-sticks on the tray. A Uttle curry-powder will often render dishes more palatable. Bottles of the Thermos type enable one to piece out a meal with hot cofifee or the like. The low table on which the trays are placed is call zen,^

Piles of quilts, ot futons (kept in air-tight closets during the day) are spread out on the mats to form the bed; the smgle under-sheet (be sure it is clean) is tacked fast to the quOt. There is no upper sheet, and no blanket. The cover is a large, thickly padded /uton, often of silk, with its upper end thick- ened into a fat, smothering roll. Over this part the foreigner will generally wish to pin a towel, to prevent it coming in con- tact with his face — as it has with those of scores of others. When piled high the quilts are comfortable, and one does not feel the rigidity of the floor. A satisfactory pillow can be made h^ doubling a cushion and enveloping it in a big towel. The pillow usually offered to foreigners will poison the sleep of the most phlegmatic. It is an extraordinarily hard, sausage- 8hax>ed contrivance stuffed tightly with oat-husks or some simi- lar unyielding substance, and with a dark surface that appar- ently has been slept on many times. An air-pillow is useful in such cases. Flea-powder is often essential when one sleeps on the ground floor, for here Pvlex irrUans is usually as numerous as he is hungry. He can often be debarred from a too personal intimacy by speading sheets of oiled paper on the matting beneath the/utons, and sprinkling a train of the powder alons its edges. To cope with the plague of these light saltatorisd carnivora, old travelers recommend a wide sleeping-bag of thin but strong hdbutae (silk) drawn round the neck by a string. They are very light and can be obtained at any silk-mercer's. Others carry sheets (which are much heavier and bulkier), and pillow-slips for the native cushions. In justice to innkeepers it should be added that fleas are not an indication of filth or dovenliness; the incessant rains drive them into the houses, where the style of floor covering offers them pleasing and im- pregnable positions.

The best inns provide mosquito-nets {kaya^ or kacho) in the form of voluminous nets (usually dyed green) S-10 ft. sq.,

1 Zen is also used to express the act of preparing food, and is used as a

numeral in counting food served in a cup or bowl, as: Meshi san 2en»3 cups

0$ boiled rice; Shiru ni zen^2 cups of soup; Hathi ichi ten = a pair of choi>-

stioks. Qo-zen is boiled rice, or a meal; u-ten wo eueru—lo set a table; Zen

n§'tsuAnt^to at at a table.

JAPANESE TEA-HOUSES AND RESTAURANTS sU

almost .as large as the room in which they are hung — by means of metal rings (kayct^no^tsurUe) on hooks in posts. Ser- vants are often immune from bites, and their word that no mosquitoes (ka) exist cannot be relied upon. The prevalence of water in Japanese towns, and of paddy-fields in the environs, account for the multiplicity of these voracious and vexatious ioaects. On entering an inn where one expects to remain over- ni^t, one should tell the okami aan to hang up a mosquito-net {liya wo tsuru) , else sleep may be impossible. In the absence of nets (which, because of being kept in close closets, are always d^apeeably musty), a little pimgent oil of peppermint {hakha) will keep the pests away while the odor lasts. The nativ&-made netting (kayaji) is considerably cheaper than the imported. Ladies who find their nets too large had best complain of the matter in a guarded m£bnner, since in certain districts <^ Japan for a widow to mention that her mosquito-net is too large is equivalent to a disposition on her part to name the day.

Formerly the perplexing chadai Qit., 'tea-price') system pievailed in the inns, and when a traveler entered he handed to the proprietor, for distribution among the servants, a gratu- ity commensiurate in value to the service he expected to receive while sojourning imder his roof. If it was not handed in in advance, a sum to cover it was added to the bill — which was adjusted in proportion. The system still exists in some places, but it is so complicated and unsatisfactory that many rich Japanese, who are expected to pay according to their station, find it too expensive, and go to foreign hotels for their enjoy- ment. Under the system the innkeeper serves not in accord- ance with what he ought to do, but in ratio to the chadai he receives. As a general rule foreigners are not expected to be familiar with the method, and the prices quoted them by an innkeeper include all he expects to receive. Tips (p. liv) to the servants are optional with travelers. Not a few of the inns in the larger cities have branches (shiten) near the rly . stations, which operate under the firm name. The kichin-yado is a cheap inn where poor travelers lodge and are charged merely for the wood with which they cook their rice.

The Japanese Tea-House (chaya) differs from the Restau- rant (ryoriya) in that at the former tea and light refreshments (cakes, soft drinks, fruit, and the like) only are to be had, while the latter are, in a way, similar to the eating-houses of the Occi- dent. Anciently a national institution of great popularity, the chaya has dwindled to the modest establishment maintained by poor but thrifty women who eke out a slender livelihood by the returns from a stock in trade worth scarcely more than 5^ yen. The oft-mentionedcha-no-yu ceremony of Old 3apaTi la rnpidly becomiDg a thing of the past, and the old-iasViioiied

^^/^^n^ct/^^^ ^^'*^ '^' Some of the modexii

^s^a, psrtjcu/arjy those scattered along the country \ii^\x-

adii JAPANESE FOOD

^ays — provide the wayfarer with a bare lodging and a meager repast, but they are not classed with yadoyas. The customary charge for tea and cakes, a dish of hot 8o6a, and two or three bowls of boiled rice is 25 sen. For a tiny pot of tea and a slice of kasuteraj or a handful of crackers at one of the omnipresent tea- houses by the roadside or near waterfalls, the Japanese pay 2-3 sen; the foreigner, 10 sen. The tea is bought in bulk and costs the vender at the rate of about 1 sen for enough for 50 or more pots.

Many of the restaurants are rapidly adapting themselves to the new order of things, — to enable them to compete with the modem clubs and the like, — and certain of those in the larger citiesare gradually assuming the character of those of the West. Many in the style of the old regime remain, and serve dainties in arid out of season at New York and London prices. They and.their geisha accompaniment are kept alive by the Japan- ese who frequent them (often for social reasons rather than for food) ; and aespite the fact that in some of them a good dinner may cost anywhere from 10 to 50 yen^ men go there for fear that to be seen in a modest-priced place might impair their financial standing. A fairly good tiffin may be had in some of them for from 8 to 5 yen^ The Japanese find a famous restaurant or two in almost every city ward in Tokyo, while in nearly every street are less famous ones where the peculiar national disnes are served at popular prices. Certain of them are famed for special dishes (eels and nee; bucikwheat-macaroni, etc.) and for the individual grace and charm of the geishay but few of them make a direct appeal to the foreigner — to whom they are as strangely uncomfortable as the food is unpalatable. There are no showy exteriors, no opulent and classic interiors. Out- wardly the most celebrated is difficult to distinguish from the adjacent dwelling.

The Seiyo-ryori, or foreign-style Restaurant that makes a direct appeal to the seiydjin^ or foreigner, and purports to serve food in the Western style (seiydgata)^ has its habitat chiefly in T5ky5, and is yet in a state of evolution.

Japanese Food (tahemono) is of wide range and amazing variety. It is as much the delight of the native — whose tastes are catholic, and who regards the Nipponese cookery as the best extant — as it is the despair of the foreigner, who con- siders most of it mawkish and unsatisfying. He fails signally to thrive long upon it, while the native who turns to foreign food {ypshoku) to the exclusion of his own, relinquishes the former with pleasure, and reverts to the latter with renewed zest. The notion entertained abroad that the Japanese as a nation live on rice is erroneous; those who can afford this now rela» ti v^ly expensive grain eat it in quantities, but the main food of 01ie poorer folks conaiata of groats, barley, millet, buckwheat.

JAPANESE FOOD zliU

beans, fish (and many marine products), and vegetables. Rice is a luxury with thousands of the peasants; it takes the place of bread with the well-conditioned; and wherever it is eaten to the exclusion of other foods it produces (because the ihhi phosphorous skin is polished ofif it) the prevalent beri- beri. The proportion of ammal food is small. Beans eaten in a variety of ways occupy a conspicuous place in the food of all classes and they supply the nitrogenous matter essential to those who rarely eat meat and who do not get the casein ob- tained by cheese-eating peoples. The soy-bean {daizu; omame) ranks first in extent, vanety of use, and value among the pulse of Jai>an, and in point of nutriment is quite near to meat. It contains nearly two fifths of its weight m legumin, nearly one sixth in fat, and is rich in nitrogen. It is to the Nipponese what frijolea are to Mexicans and garhamoa (chick-peas) to Spaniards. Of the numerous varieties some are made into curd, and into the widely celebrated bean-sauce (the Worces- tershire of Asia) called shoyu {sho, soy; yu, oil), and which is almost as indispensable as nee. It forms the daily relish of the rich man and the beggar, and is in as general use as tea and tobacco. The Japanese first became acquainted (in 1542) with bread and similar baked foods through the Portuguese, and from them they adopted the first article and called it bv the Spanish pan; and a spongy, saffron-yellow cake, which they named kasutera (pron. kdS'teh'rah)^ from Castile. The Portuguese also introduced maize, the mahiz of the Carib- beans, which Columbus found growing in Hispaniola, and which he carried to Europe, whence it spread over the civilized world. When the Japanese adopted it, they called it td-^moro- hoshi (Chinese sorghum) td-kibi (Chinese millet) j Satsuma-kibi (because it was planted first in Satsuma Province) , and Nanhan M (millet of the Southern barbarians), because it was intro- duced by those whom the natives considered barbarians. Maize is gradually becoming a valuable food product^ though the plant does not possess the same character as certain of the maize plants of America.

The average Japanese lives temperately and frugally, but eats noisily and rapidly. Before the mtroduction of Buddhism, fish, flesh of wild animals, roots, and a few fruits formed the food of the people. Buddhist influence caused the abandon- ment of the meat diet, and cultivated vegetables of various kinds came more into prominence — chief among them rice. Most important among the starch-furnishing tubers is the saUhimo ('village potato 0 or CdLadium Colocasia (the toro or hob of Hawaii ; yu-tao of China ; oto of Central Ameri ca) . Then follow sweet potatoes, Irish potatoes (introduced by the Dutch and called JagcUaror-imo, from Jacatra^ the earlier de8\g;iia\.\oii for Batavia) ; the rhizoma of the lotus flower; bamboo bYioo\.^, Peiiu»/w the most conepicuouB among the vegetab\eE ax^

r

I fe

JAPANESE FOOD

the long white radiehefl called daikon {Raphanus gatfi>u«r<. ferred to by foreigners aa the Japanese Limbufger), highlyefr ' teemedaodefttenby allclaHBea. Near KyOto and KagodiimB they attain to extraordinary size and often weigh several pounds. When boiled they are not unlike turnips; but when

K'ckled the odor of putrefaction is eingularly offensive to reignetB. Slices of the pickled product are served as a relish with every native meal. Thebeautifuldark violet fruit of the ^B-pla°t (nasu), partly cooked fresh in Houp, or salted and used instead of daikon, is also much eateeiaed. Several varie- ties of mushrooina {take) are popular. — The decline of Bud- dhism and the adoption of Weatern customs have wrought* marked change in the Japanese diet. Milk (from Ilolstein cows), cheese, butter, eg^, bread, meat, Sour, fowls, wild game, fish in Umitleas variety, beer, whiskey, and the likef^^ consumed by whosoever (outside the priesthood) can atti them- Jama are made in several towns, and the consumptfl of fruit grows steadily. ■1

Seaweed in almost endless variety enters largely into fofl stuffs. Notonlyare the giantaof the marineflora taken npa utilized in various ways, but also the more delicate redg green eorta — the use of which has been adopted by o

nations. MostottheediblegreenandredalgEebeartheKei

term nori, while the words umi-kusa, or kai-»d (which alUi , leans bScitc-de-mer), are used for alpw in general. Many of ile weeds are eaten fresh, others in soup. Some are dried or lickled and eaten in vinegar. They usually appear in com- Derce in the form of little packages; to the sale of whieh special (ttorea are dedicated . Certain varieties are converted into jelly. Among the curious things eaten may be mentioned whala- meat; squid, slices of raw fish (s'^himi), to which cholera is often traceable; sea-slugs; crilled ape (considered a great del- icacy);and other things whicti foreigners consider detestable. — An elaborate Japanese dinner comprises many trays each of three or four courses, and usually much more than a sane person should eat at a sitting. The custom of sweeping the food (with chop-sticks) into the back of the mouth, then wash- ing it down with soup drunk from a bowl, and without chew- ing, gives rise to the national complaint, dyspepsia. Banquets are conKdered incomplete without geisha to interject sparkle and jollity. If the deadly drum-beating does not give the foreign guest a tight headache , frequent sippings of the harm- lesa*appearing but treacherous safcsand the pickling green tea will provide theneceasarypainunderthewaistcoat. The Jap- anese are hospitable to a fault, and are inordinately fond of giving banquets (sometimes at home, but mote often at re»- laurants). Teaand cake without BUgai^aaATn-ias. Me wa\,\»iume a// vimtore &t a Japanese house . Tea and ti&cVws atc^Xrai. served free ia sbopa. In the loreiRu bviameaft^ioieKs olXs*a-

i na ^■'tei

m

O&PANBSE/TOOD *

bfMand Eokfl tlie pleMiDc oiwtoa M tbOowed ol MniagteM ywiwgw«BdMiUcto«Miaorew»t*Fj[.«iid toidtoMerar

WMMui to be m the pmmuM ftt that jUme. jlHnl« will find tike following Uat ot native diahM lUeful m« diokis Kt nativB inaa ^ rsBtaurazda; additional words liHWoana in tibe Tooabularr at p. cxxx:

CUdMi (lorQ. Irt-tori: chieken boiled and aerred witJi «|»*iliU[ iMl.^— roK-fortrroafltahioken.— rorJTMfte.'chictMi itMid fai a k«tlJ« or fried in a pan.

Fish (nofcono). Ni-zakana: cooked or boiled fish. — Sui- nona: fiBh-aoup. — Shioyaki: fiah salted, then baked. — reriyojtt; fish in a sauce of soy, mirm, and sugar. — Su-jio- mma: Bhell-fiah (or other raw fish) eaten with vinegar. — ATai: raw fish washed in cold water or chilled with ice. — AfomosTi; the same aerved with vinegar and cold stewed vege- tables. — Saekimi: raw fish cut in thin slices and eaten after being dipped in skoyu. — Kabayaki: fiah which is first Bteamod. UieD dipped into aoy and roasted (or eels cut open on the dorsal line, covered with soy mixed with sugar, and roasted). The latter dish, usually called Unagi-iu>-kabayakij is a favorite with the Japanese, and is usually prepared specially in restau- itntavhichows their fame to its savory quality (and are often eels are served). Unoj^i-nieaki Kvered with bits of roaat eel. — 1 with salt and sake, rolled d' from its resemblance to the onica). Tempura: fried fish;

. _, iempura, or fish-fritters (of a

■ivt of trout), make a widely popular dish in which some aa- Hn eooki excel. Some of the most popular restaurants in TOkf 0 (and elseiriiere) are those at which this is the only dish ponded. — Sbi no tompuro.' fried shrimps. — Tempura-toba: iibMri (a bnokwheat vennicelli) mixed with fried fish. -^ Bteki-iakatia: a large fish salted and broiled, or boiled in ea^. — Umau: fAtked-ap fiah or fowl boiled (wiUi lotus-roota and ntitoes) in eoy and flavored with minn. — 0-kira: boiled Wfioating in aoup or served alone.

dp (famaoo). TamagoyaM: egm beaten, mixed with salt udsngor, and cooked in the form oTan omelette. — Tavtoi^olo- & vennicdll (or other food) covered with beaten eggs, then Ddled into a kind of soup. — Irl4amago: eggs stirred, then bailed in iftovu. — Ude-tamiigo: steam^ eggs. — Han^uku: KA-lxnled flsga. — JVom»-no-faimoflo.- raw eggs. — Tamago no ttefctbeyplSof an^Eg. — T'amofDfuisUromi/tbewhibeof an (gg. — Tamagano kant: eggshell.

(niliu;vahi;ifvil'nabejetc.). l78AwM6e.'stewedb«et.— hashed meat. — Beiebteak is usually pTOiio\mce&

dvi JAPANESE POOD

Rice (comp. p. ex) is called by many names: menBaymeshi a more polite term is gezen; and the cultured term (used b; ladies) is gohan. Foreigners soon grow fond of the unusuaU; excellent native rice, which is cooked in such a way that ever; grain retains its integrity, yet each is just sticky enough to pner mit a mass to be lifted easily with chop-sticks without droppini a grain. Azuki-meshi : rice and red pea-beans mixed (boilecO *— Mochi: small dough-cakes made of rice and sold throughou Japan. — Siishi: a general name for food of boiled rice and fisli eggs, vegetables, etc., seasoned with vinegar and soy. As ai amx the form is changed into zushi. — Chirashi-zusni: boile< rice relished with salt and vinegar, and mixed with cooked fisb eggs, vegetables, etc., chopped fine. — Hako-zushi: the abov placed in a wood box and pressed. — Inarv-zuahi: fried <o/i stuffed with chirashi-zushi. — Maki-zushi: boiled rice an< other vegetables rolled and wrapped in a sheet of the seawee< called Asakuaor-nori, — Mushi-zushi: a kind of chiraahi-zush

Eut in a porcelain bowl and steamed. — Nigiri-zushi: a ball o oiled rice seasoned with salt and vinegar, and covered with \ piece of pickled fish or something of the kind. — Funa-zushi carp (Juno) in boiled rice seasoned with vinegar and salt (; specialty of the Province of Omi) . — Komhu-zushi: fish seas oned with vinegar and wrapped in a piece of the edible sea weed known asLaminaria japonica, A differentiation of thi popular food is the Komhumaki: baked or roasted fish wrapper m komhu, then tied, and boiled in sugar and soy.

Various. — Chawan-mushi: a popular stew (or thick cue tardy soup) of eggs, fish (or chicken) , and vegetables mixed. — Chawan: literalhr a tea-cup, but meaning a thin fish soup witl mushrooms. — fsukudani: small fish boiled in soy and used a a relish or condiment (named for Tsukudajima, a place ii T6ky5 famous for its preparation). — Oden: a stew (greatl; enjoyed by the proletariat) of fried bean-curd, lotus-roots potatoes, etc. — Kuchitori: a side-dish or dessert of confec tionery (boiled sweet chestnuts, a sweet omelette, or th like). — Aemono: a salad of bean-sauce or pounded sesamuc seeds. — Kd-no^mono: pickled daikon. egg-plant, cabbage or the like. — Shiruko: rice-cakes boilea in, and covered witl an (crushed beans sweetened with sugar). — Imagawayak'i wheaten dough stuffed with bean-sugar and baked on a coppe pan ; the name is derived from Imagawa-hashiy Tokyo, where i was first made. The article is popular with children of th commonalty. Foreigners should be careful that it is mad properly, as the metropolitan newspapers reported recentl; the poisoning of over a hundred persons who had eaten th cake made at a wayside shop. — Sembei: a cracknel (or nativ cookie) made of rice or wheaten flour; when salt is added it i eaVed s^iO'Sembei,

Ame, a starch-^ugai mixed with dextime aiid ^ater, Is

JAPANESE HOUSES idvH

Sopular sweet and comes to market in the form of mideu (or uid) amey a very thick yellow syrup (like honey) ; and a douphy substance flavored to the taste. Both are sold in con- fectionery shops. The latter is popular among foreigners.

Soup {shiru), Tofu-iiru: bean-curd soup. — Miso^ihiru: bean-soup with vegetables.

Beverages. Sake and beer are popular. — Tamagozdke:

rog made by stirring beaten eggs and sweetened sake over a fire. — Tamagoyu: a milder form of the above composed of beaten eggs, hot water, and sugar. Generally speaking, the Japanese are a sober people, and drunkenness is not a na- tional vice.

Houses (ie; uchi; etc.)- The ordinary Japanese dwelling is acellarless, box-like structure destitute of architectural char^ acter, but is oftentimes graceful and dainty. It pleases the Japanese as much as it displeases some foreigners. The former regard it as like the good wine that needs no bush. The latter have anathematized it in many languages. The famous critic, ^. RHUf has this to say of it: —

'In the architecture and internal arrangement of their dwellings the Japanese have not developed so much talent and taste as in many other things; yet even here we cannot fail to remark a commendable sense of cleanliness. The Japanese house lacks chiefly solidity and comfort, and therefore two of the fundamental conditions which we are accustomed to re- quire in every house: solidity, inasmuch as it is slightly con- structed, of wood and other inflammable materials, and is in a high degree exposed to destruction by fire and water; comfort, since it is without furniture, and provides no sufficient protec- tion against cold, damp, and smoke. These three things, to which we must add evil odors from the sanitary arrangements, the hardly ever absent rats, and sometimes also fleas and mosquitoes, are the frequent torments of the traveler, in a Japanese hostelry.

'The generality of houses throughout the country are built upon one common plan ; but the size and fineness of the ma- terials employed, varies. The ordinary dwelling-house is alto- gether calculated for a family of 4 or 5 persons, and agreeabl v with the modest means and requirements of its owner, is small and simple, and as it can be erected for a few hundred yen^ it of course presents a common, poverty-stricken aspect, without any decoration or convenient fittings. How far this style of bmlding has been determined and limited by the frequent occurrence of violent earthquakes and disastrous fires, it is difficult to say. The chief building materials are furnished by various pines and firs, and for the better class of houses, by eryptomerias. The Japanese house is a low building, oi on^ ox two stories^ of light framework, without foundation, aiidmXXi

odviil HOUSES AND TATAMI

a heavy roof. The latter is supported on wooden posts resting on unhewn stones. Its main supporters are strong beams, which are caref uUy fitted together. The roof leans at an obtuse angle, as a rule overhangs considerably, is, in the case of dwell- ing-houses, simple, in the case of temples and old castles gen- erally turned upwards toward the edge as in Chinese pagodas, in the villages still for the most part covered with straw, in the towns with shingles or tiles. There can be no question that in the construction and covering of their roofs the Japanese dis- plav great skill, and that the thick tile or straw roof has a care and. attention bestowed upon it which we frequently miss else- where. Parallel to, and behind the row of posts erected at intervals of about 6 ft. , upon which the roof rests, runs again a second row. The interval of 3 ft. between the two is intended for a veranda. As soon as the heavy roof rests upon these posts and the beams connecting them, the carpenter (daiku) has done his work and the finer workmanship of the cabinet-maker Uashi-^mono-ya) begins. The house, therefore, without a foun- dation, and resting upon the corner-stones from 2 to 3 ft. above the ground, is to some extent in the air, though it is not uncom- mon to add a wall afterwards or to cover in the spaces between the corner-stones with planking.

* The size of the rooms, indeed the whole ground-plan of the houses, is determined by the tatamif^ or rush mats, with which the boarded floors are covered. They form, without exception, right angles of 6 ft. in length, and 3 ft. in breadth, and are padded on the under side to a thickness of an inch or more with straw matwork of coarse stuff, and bound at the edges with strips of stuff. In accordance with these, rooms of 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, etc.. mats are spoken of. The average height of the rooms is from 7i to 9 ft. They are separated from one another by /u- 8U7na partitions, which may be opened or removed altogether. These are frames or shutters of the size of the tatamiy covered on both sides with stout wall-paper or A^raA;ami (in well-to-do houses even with gold paper), and running between grooved beams. The space of from 2 to 4 ft. broad between the upper cross-beam which bounds such a partition wall and the roof is either closed and painted blue,rose-colored, or white,or is fitted with fine and artistically carved open woodwork. Besides the divisions of the rooms Just mentioned, which is involved in the plan of the house, there is another still more movable division, produced by beautiful folding screens {hyobu) . The Japanese

^ The best tatami are made of wara, or riee^traw» closely bound and braided together, constituting their toko, or bed; they are fastened at the borders with strips of cloth (silk in the case of mats for the Imperial house- hold), and covered and hela fast by beautifully woven rush matfi on the

Mr aide (omote). The Loochoo Isi '

ikBhiit and above all Bingo (in i injE provinces, are celebrated tor 1 waJaed most, being dearer and handsomer than those of Bungo, but leas

upper side (omoie). The Loochoo Islands^ Bungo and other provinces of Kyikakii, and above all Bingo (in Hiroshima Prefecture) and the neighbor- provinces, are celebrated tor their rushes and mats. Bingo-omote are

HOUSES AND HIBACHI zliz

fooms receive their light through the ahiyji. These are shutters tomething like thefiiauTna, but are converted by finely planed laths, running lengthways and crossways, into a network of flquares, over which tough transparent paper is pasted from the outside. The shoji, therefore, represent our windows.

' The veranda is open throughout the day in fine weather, as are the rooms looking upon the street : but in the evening and inniny weather, is closed by the so-called rain-doors (amddo), to protect the house from intruders and the paper panes from becoming wet. This protection consists of boards running in poovesi and fastened from within by a bolt in the last of them. If any one desires admission into an ordinary house, he goes np to the shutter-door and calls out, ** Gomen-nasai! *^ (I beg your pardon) ; or, less politely, ' * Moshi. moahi / " (I say, I say !) and also dapNB his hands, upon which the door is opened. The best rooms are always f oimd at the back of the house, where the veranda leads into ithe little garden. At the side, and reached from the veranda by a boarded passage, is placed the doset. Toward the street generally lies the living-room of the family, and not unfrequently also the kitchen, which, like the rest of the house, is without a chimney, so that the usual fuel — charcoal prepared from oak and chestnut wood — sometimes fills all the dwelling-rooms with smoke, and not unfrequently affects the cleanliness here prevailing.

, 'The Japanese rooms lack sufficient privacy and anything like comfort. We miss in them chairs and tables, beds and other things. The native does not need them. He leaves his geta orzonat the door, so as not to soil the beautiful mats, and is nevermore comfortable than when resting upon his knees and heels. There are but two articles of furniture indispensable to him — the hibachi and the tahaJco'honf i.e.. the fire-basin and the tobacco-tray. The hibachi is a portaole apparatus con- sisting of a roimd brazen or bronze bowl, or a wooden box, lined with fireproof cla^ along the margin, and wood-ashes in the middle, upon which are placed glowing wood embers. The tabako^on is a tray with a similar arrangement of glowing coal, and a spittoon, instead of which a piece of bamboo-cane is often employed. The hibachi serves the purpose of lighting a pipe as well as of giving warmth. For the latter purpose the older arrangement, the kotatsu. a large square opening in the floor, which is half filled with nreproof clay and wood-ashes, like a/ti^ocAi, and has in the middle a little heap of glowing coals, seems better adapted. Near it, the inmates of the house, covering themselves with quilted mattresses, seek protection against the cold of the long winter nights. In many rooms, especially in the finest, the one fixed wall forms a sort of recess. The one half of it is called tokonoma. The floor of the room ia We raised from 2 to 4 inches high, for a width of from 24 to 90 iaehes, and frequently has placed upon it two vasea m\i\x

1 JAPANESE HOUSES

flowering branches of some favorite plant; between them for- meriy stood the katana-kake, or sword-rest. The wall behind it is decorated with a kakemono. The second half of the wall forms a bay, occupied by small cupboards with sliding doors, and black lacquered chests, to receive the bedding, which is only taken out immediately before bedtime. This consists of (1) the futon J or mattress, tightly stuffed with cotton or silk wadding; (2) the kaimakij or night-dress, a sort of caftan with wide sleeves, which in winter is also stoutly wadded; and (3) the makurat or pillow. This is a small stool without feet, havinp a crescent-shaped piece cut out, and covered by a pil- low-slip of paper or cotton. Covered with the kaimaki (in which the neas are said to make themselves very much at home), stretched upon the futon, which is spread out immedi- ately on the tatami (also said to be a happy hunting-ground for nomi), resting with the back of the neck in the saddle of the makura (the adamantine rigidity of which is distressing to for- eigners), the Japanese enjoys his repose, while the extended mosquito-net shelters him from the omnipresent ka.

'The rooms are illuminated at night by paper lamps (andon) or roaoku (candles of vegetable tallow) , and by a large standing paper lantern in which the andon burns quietly. Electric lights and kerosene lamps are now commonly used in the larger cities. In one room of every Japanese house is the domestic altar, kami-danaf or sacred shrine, a wooden Shinto temple in mini- ature, in which, among other things, are kept little tablets bearing the names of the gods, before which the master of the house every day performs his devotions. The space between the boarded and papered ceiling and the roofs of houses is usu- ally inhabited by rats, which at night visit the sleeping-rooms, devour the stearine candles, and otherwise make themselves troublesome. In the country the houses are for the most part detached, while in the towns one wooden structure immedi- ately succeeds another, which causes a great risk from fire. Apart from this the construction of the Japanese house is un- doubtedly ill-adapted to the climate. Though it secures cool, airy apartments in the heat of summer, during the much longer cold winter, it affords no adequate protection against the cold air which everywhere penetrates through the joints and chinks.

* The slight structures in which trades-folk carry on their business, are wooden edifices, generally of 2 stories and occa- sionally of 3, their front room completely exposed to the street, or separated from it by a curtain formed of strips of linen, ana their back rooms opening, by means of paper-covered sliding- doors, on a miniature garden. At night these houses are her- metically sealed by wooden sliding-aoors, so that whatever might be claimed for their method of construction as allowing the atmosphere to percolate freely during the daytime, they

JAPANESE HOUSES U

beoome oppressively close and insanitary when closed for the night Strange to say, too. the members of the family seldom, and the servants never, sleep in the second story, where air mif^t be admitted without giving access to thieves. Thus, for Bome at any rate of its inmates, a Japanese residence is alwa^rs enentially unwholesome in summer owing to defective venti- lation. Further, it promotes immodesty and therefore im- morality; for in its stifling atmosphere all covering at night becomes unendurable, while, at the same time, paper sliding- doon are quite ineffective to segregate one room from another. Yet another grave defect of the Japanese house is that it acts like a cupping-machine to draw up noxious vapors from the nil For tne floors being closely constructed so as to prevent the overlaid mats from decaying, and the groimd imdemeath being left in its natural state, its miasmal exhalations find ready access to the chambers above. Neither can it truly be said that a Japanese house is remarkable for cleanliness. It certainly looks clean, because the neat matSj the well-polished veranda, the knotless timbers, and the white paper give an impression of purity and careful preservation. But these very ouits which contribute so greatly to the general effect* of tidi- ness are incomparable dirt trai>s. They are not removed for cleaning purposes more than twice a year, in many houses not more than once, and an almost incredible quantity of dirt is thus found to have accumulated beneath them and in their interstices. So long, however, as the Japanese sits and sleeps

ri the floor, he must have mats. Andhe must also have the coal-burning brazier, which is undoubtedly an imwhole- some element in his life, whether he bends over it inhaling its carbonic-acid fumes, or places it under his quilt to warm his feet.'

The anka, a small box in which live charcoal is kept, and which is put under the futons in winter, is unhealthy, and besides simocating manv babies, is said to be responsible for 25% of the fires which devastate the cities with such appall- ing frequency. The flimsy character of the average house is demonstrated in these fires, which burn by thousands. As a nde more attention is paid to satin-surfaced boards and care- ful joinery in a native house than to hygiene or solidity. For- eign influence is, however, producing a great change in the architecture of the larger cities ; the employment of bricks and iron as building materials (even marble) is increasing steadily, and these with stone are replacing wood in the houses of those who can afford them. In the newer structures the Oriental inheritance expresses itself in domes and spires, copper- aheathed, and resembling in shape those of Persia and India. It is said that there is no danger from asphyxiation where the Aaa gnules of charcoal are us^ in the sleeping-rooms of natwe Also that the big spiders (kumo) so often seen axe

lii FURNISHED HOUSES

hurmle^. The Japanese walls have not only ears but eves, and the foreigner not unfrequently sees one of these looking in- tently at him through a small hole in the paper of the ^dji. Occasionally one may detect a finger in the act of making sueh a hole, or enlarging one already made. The paper is fixed to the framework so tightly that when a hole is made in it a sud- den explosive report is heard. To obviate this the tip of the finger is usually moistened, then a slight twisting motion en- ables the hole to be made quite noiselessly.

Godowns (from the Malay godonQy a warehouse), or store- houses {dozo), differ from ordinary houses in that they are rendered fireproof by plastered walls. The prototype of those now in use is believed to have become popular with Kyoto merchants in the 13th cent.

Furnished Houses are nearly always to be rented in cities like T6ky5, Yokohama, or Kobe, and persons intending to remain in Japan for a long time may find them advantageous. As a rule they are let (consult the daily newspapers for adver- tisements) bv well-to-do foreign residents leaving for Europe or Ame];ica for a 6-12 mont&* fm-lough. The servants and all the family belongings are customarily turned over to the lessee, and one takes possession of the house in the smooth running order in which it is supposed to be left at the end of the stipidated time. In many cases carriages and horses are included. Generally speaking, the servants are trustworthy and tractable, and in cases wncre they have been in the house for years and are left practically in charge by the master, with instructions to be on their good behavior, they do not betray their trust, and foreigners find the experience agreeable. Such a household will almost run itself, generally with a total ab- sence of care or worry on the part of the stranger, who may enter with his trunks and find his bath prepared and his break- fast about ready to serve; and leave 6 or 12 months later by merely loading his luggage into a cart and bidding the servants

§ood-Dye. A well-furnished, attractive, detached house with a ower-garden can sometimes be rented completely furnished and equipped with servants for 150-200 yen a month, or more in proportion to the size, location, and furnishings. A retinue of servants (cook, house-boy, amahy gardener, and coolie) may cost a total of 100 yen more, while the food will vary with the taste and requirements of the lessee. 400-500 yen should easily cover the monthly cost of living (modestly) for 2-3 per- sons. While the Japanese pay 3-5 yen for a cook ; 5-7 yen for a seamstress; 7-15 yen for a good amah, etc., foreigners are expected to pay more. An experienced Chinese butler will cost 27-30 yen a month; a good Japanese boy, 15-30 yen; a coolie, 15 yen ; amahy 17-20 yen; cook {ry5rininy or cook-san), 30 yen; coacbmfLn (betto). 30 y^. Carriages can be rented from the livery-Btable at about 60 yen a month. The monthly rate (at

SERVANTS lin

the stable) for boarding a horse and keeping the carriage in Mm is 40 yen. Fee to the hettd, 5 yen.

If servants are well treated and are not scolded, they will serve one with extraordinary devotion, and in a manner that ^11 be a revelation to Americans. By having cook-san present his account (for all kitchen expenses) at the end of the week, and submit daily a list of the things he may like to have, the mistress need never enter the kitchen, nor know until sne is served what is to be placed on the dining-table. If she is ex- pecting friends, be there two or a dozen, she has but to tell the cook the number invited, and the style of meal wanted, and it will be served promptly and in many cases as daintily and sumptuously as the most exacting could wish. Poverty has taught many of the Japanese an economy that serves excel- lently where one has a limited income ; while a natural aptitude combined with inherent skill enable many cooks to prepare dishes that would delight the soul of a French chef. Servants prefer their own food to that of the foreigner, and eat it, the while saving all the left-overs from the table to be worked up Into attractive and appetizing dishes for the next meal. A housemaid^s work is often done by the * boy,' the amah serving as a child's nurse or as madame's maid.

Persons renting unfurnished houses are often able to furnish them cheaply and quickly through the auction-sales which are a feature of the port cities. Foreign residents leaving Japan dispose of their belongings through this medium, or, if assured of abetter price, sell their furnishings complete to the second- hand stores. Advertisements of both appear in the daily news- papers in English. Foreigners rarely employ the services of the KHan (Employment Agency, or tne Agent) when they need servants, but inquire about among their friends. The Keian habd — an old woman who makes it a business to get servants for one — is sometimes useful . A small present now and then to trusted servants keeps them contented and faithful.

The concierge, that bane of life in France, the janitor, and other necessary evils in so-called civilized countries, are un- known in Japan where the servant problem is no problem, and housekeeping is perhaps easier than in any other country of the world. The stranger may like to remember that in Japan servants regard their master as a friend rather than as a ty- rant, and the feeling is soon reciprocated. If one detects a servant in a fault, it is better to have it out with the offender at once ; for if one overlooks it, the result may prove disastrous to discipline. The desire to take servants home with one, to America or England, is often rendered impossible by the difficulties placed in the way (particularly in the case of ttnuJut) by the authorities, who maintain a strict surveiWaiiCie on ill native women who leave the country. InioTmaUoii "— •— iiusheadis obtainable at one's consulate.

Uv TIPS — LAUNDRY

Tips (sohana). The tipping system has yet to attain ii Japan and on the Pacific Ocean the shameless tyranny thai characterises it in Europe and on the Atlantic. The ChineM 'boys' on the Canadian Pacific ships, and the Japanese en those of the Toyo Kiaen Kaisha are not permitted to solidl tips, and are usually grateful for much smaller fees than those often demanded by the greedy and presumptuous servantf (covetous ingrates who successfully poison the pleasure of a trip abroad) on transatlantic liners and in European hotels. It ic customary, but is not obligatory, to give the deck-boy on a transpacific ship $1 ; the table-boy $2 ; cabin-boy $2 ; boots $1 bath-boy $1; and the stewardess (if her services are com: manded) $2, — all in American monejvr. The 9-17 days voyage thus costs one $9, or less than 5% of the regular fare on the best ships. — No definite schedule has been applied tc tipping in Japan^ since many Japanese in lowly positiom have too much pnde to sell their self-respect for money thej have not earned. When a Japanese can do a foreigner a courteous service, it is done usually in an ungrudging man- ner, and not for the sake of financial reward. The Chinese 'pidgins-English cumshaw (according to Giles, the Amojj pronunciation of Chinese kan seay, 'grateful thanks') is the word used by Chinese servants for a tip. The customary tip for a foreigner in a hotel in Japan is 1 yen a week to eaco of his servants — table-, room-, and bath-boy. Americans are gradually upsetting this easily supportable arrangement) but the traveler who does not fee in excess of this amount makes it easier for those who follow him. Many native serv^ ants prefer presents {miyage) to tips, as Japan is ' a land oj present making.' It remains to be said that in Japan, blackmail 18 never resorted to to extort tips, and that hotel proprieton discountenance, rather than favor, the giving of big tips tc their servants. The writer makes it a point to abide by no ar bitrary rule fixed by any hotel or steamship company, but tc fee in strict accordance with the service rendered. Tips are noi expected by railway-men and a host of others to whom they arc given in Europe, and lea^t of all by Japanese holding official positions of any kind. Pride of race and position often extendi to the lowest among the Japanese, and on this lower runs of the social ladder the native shioboletn of courtesy and help? ulnesE is oftentimes the most in evidence.

Laundry (seniaku) is done excellently and at reasonable prices by Japanese women. In some of the country villages, where starch is unobtainable, the work is apt to be unsatisfa& tory, but in the port cities it is done better (and much cheaper] than in America. Residents customarily pay 4 yen for lOQ pieces irrespective of size — handkerchiefs and collars being counted the same as skirts or shirt-waists or coats. The hote£ charge from 5 to 6 yen per 100, and some will present lists at so

PLAN OF TOUR Iv

ii

much per piece, thuB making the cost considerably higher. If the traveler finds the steam laundries (serUc^uya) patronized by certain of the hotels too destructive, he will save both his wid clothing and money by obtaining from some resident the luune of a good laundress.

]>• Plan of Tour. Tourist Societies. Climate. Seasons. Health. What to Wear. Hints to Travelers.

Plan of Tour. Of the fifteen thousand or more tourists who visit Japan each year and collectively spend 50 million yen th^e, too many content themselves with treading the beaten tracks of travel; some because limited for time; others be- caufle of the prevalent belief that to penetrate to the interior without a gwde is impracticable and is fraught with many dis- comforts; and still others who think that a few of the places . contiguous to the coast exhaust the sights of the Empire. The Ideas of one traveler as to what is and is not worth seeing are Kkely to be so at variance with those of another that it is difiB- colt, if not impossible, to plan a tour that would fulfill the requirements, or meet with the approval, of even a limited number of persons of different temperaments and aims. In ▼iew of the long journey most travelers must make to reach hpasi, they should, in justice to themselves, visit as many as poasible of the places really worth seeing. Wlule it is manifestly mpossible to estimate correctly the taste of every traveler as rcf^irds meritorious sights, it should be remembered that Japanese ideas of what is beautiful often clash with those of Occidentals, who should take with a large grain of salt many of the flamboyant eulogies of places set forth in certain of the local guidebooks. It may be accepted as a safe axiom that a liberal percentage of the above-mentioned places are not worth the time, money, or effort spent in reaching them. The con- stant aim of the writer has been to point out and describe the localities and objects worth seeing, and to advise the traveler against others.

There is no dearth of things which one ought to see in Japan, for it is a wonderland in the broadest sense of the word. It is a felicitous blend of the cold Northland and the warm semi- tropics; of Norway and New Zealand; of the languorous, lotus- eatmg Orient, and the virile, materialistic Occident. It is a region of striking contrasts and puzzling contradictions, with a fascination peculiarly its own — one which grows rather than palls upon one. Here the pine and the bamboo — emblems of willowy grace and of somber strength — thrive side by side, and here the old and the new — the 10th and the 20th centuries — are so strangely and inextricably blended that to separate the fusion were impossible. Barnyard fowls with tails \4 It. loo^ and qbU wfthovt tails; womm with jet-black teet\i anA

I

PLAN OF TOUR

I eyebrawe; ehaven-pated babiee and boQEes; bi^<

dbantam chickens; dwarf trees and othera that, n

brothers to the giant aequo iaa of the Panifio Coast of America, give one an inkling of its grotesqueriea — as do the charn^ people themaelvea, melancholy by inslinct and inheritance, yet with faces almost perpotuully wreathed in ainiles. In few countries of the world is nature so pitilessly savage, yet withal eo delightful, and in few does ahe express her elemental pas- riona, and varying moods in so remarkable a way. Roanng, sereeching volcanoes that vomit their scorching wrath ovei miles of peaceful vatley-land, and eometimea shake the Eni- pire to itB foundationa by their internal and ceaselesa con- flicts, dot the country from frigid Yezo at the N. to warm Sot 8UWO at the 8., yet some of them rise skyward in cones so graceful and eo t^nderl^beautiful that thousandsof pilgrims from the remotest limits of the realm believe them em- bodied spirits, and come with travelers from all parts of the world, to worship and ascend them. On their flower-decked flanks, warmed by the subterranean flres which seem never to grow cold, are some of the quaintest health resorts im- aginable; perched like eagles' nests amid ancient groves of noble cryptomerias, grotesque pines, and myriad deciduoUB

t trees whence one maj> look down past smiling, sunlit plains and valleys to blue, junk-flecked seas eo beautiful that one stands spellbound at sight of them. Plunging rivers that form splendid waterfalls, cascades, and rapids, and inland seas and I akcs so charming that those of few countries of the globe can aspire to vie with tnem, are frequent features of the Islands; in -whose ancient groves sit gigantic bronze Buddhas and barb&rically splendid Buddhist templee erected more than a millenium ago, when savage hordes ranged from the Big Horn to Peru, and time had yet to mark three hundred years before Columbus could be born. A list of the many cunona places in Japan would read almost like a compil- ation from the Arabian Nights. Miniature Niagaras, Yosem- ilea, ^d Yellowstones; duplicates of the Terraces of Neir Zealand and the Hill Stations of India, are scattered promia- cuously throughout the islands, where the Black Fellows of Australia are replaced by the hairy Ainus of Yeio, and the shrinesof/se.of K^a-ean,andascorcof othera recall Ihoseof Iiourdes and Arabia, Benares, and Guadalupe. Miniature surface volcanoes which throw out boiling mud, scalding water, and blistering steam, whose environing crusts areso thin and unstable that an unusual pressure of the foot precipi- tates the unwary into seething iires below; whistling, sputtei- iuftspitefiil geysers, sulphuriefumaroles, lakes of boilingamd, gorges reeking of pest if erouB iume.s tWt coroc&VtKi^tVitHo"^ infernal regioBS — all theBRVet\lftVi\e\iB\\-Vi\,c\iei»4arewiwnBr aJOfl timt titejwveely oalVior apoewi mmi&Qtt- »oVnito

PLAN OF TOUR Ivii

Qoently the traveler in Japan oomes to some specifically vol- Moio region where the people of an entire village cook their ibod in surface holes msMde in the thin and treacherous crust viiieh forms their earth ; in others he will be lulled to sleep by the muffled groaning of some grouchy volcano and awake to find the house-roof white with the ashes or the sm^l stones viiieh the uneasy monster has spewed out in the ni^t.

Ashes sometimes fall in T5ky5 from the volcanoes at the W.and N.y and in dozens of native villages the street eutters ran perpetually with steaming water that spurts boiling bom the adjacent m«untain-side and leaves a trail of iron-rust or a eoat oi sulphiur-plush wherever it goes. In such places jMably IkaOf ICuscUaUf etc. ; see the index) the water is piped into the houses, where it pours direct into the primitive baths, and thus enables the stranger to get a bit nearer to nature's hnrt than he has perchance been before. On misting days, iHm the clouds huig low and prevent the steam from rising, nrtain of these towns look like transplanted bits of the infer- nal region, and the low-hanging stench of plutonian sulphur fimes which brood above them do not detract from the simile, fiere, too, as well as in many similar places in Japan, one may iritness the somewhat curious and unusual (to Occidentals) ipsctacle of scores of men and women, old and young, plump nd wrinkled, charming and otherwise, bathing promiscuously , but overstepping in no wise the modesty of nature. There are many such bathi in Japan; at Beppu one may see almost any mnnDer of innocent nude bathers stretched on the beach, with

£68 of healing sand scattered over them; while in the adjacent th-houses the scene is decidedly haremesque. At some of the hotrspring resorts in the mountains, the near-by gorges ring and echo ceaselessly to the pulsing and thumping of suppressed natural forces. The sputtering, blistering jets of water that jerk out of the hillsides are chased by angry, hissing clouds of scarifying steam that at times screech like raucous power- whistles, and drown the sibilant sound of the dry but super- heated winds that stream from venomous f umaroles where the fever-smitten soil shows ominous, glowing red heat in the <iracks a few inches below the surface. In this land most of the ^Icanoes are easily accessible, and often within a short stroll of the hotel one may stand at the rim of some gasping, dying crater, and, while gazing down into nature's restless glowing worksnop, applaud its futile efforts to send the white-lot fire hi^ enough to chastise irreverent spectators. The Japanese now such disregard for some of the volcanoes that they live and have their being within the very walls of the craters them- tBlres. At Aso-san upward of a hundred villages dot the inner dopes of the once gi^ntic vent whose internal fires are slowly 0OQjfaig, but which still have strength enough to smoke incea- ta^jr and oocasionaJJy' to dart up Eamea that scorcli impiu-

Iviii PLAN OF TOUR

dent investigators. Not far from this intensely in1 spot is the quaint little town of Takeda, in a sort of Valley reached throu^ forty or more tunnels cut the old crat^ wall.

So varied is the Japanese climate that while flo blooming on the E. or Pacific Coast, beyond the grea range which forms the'backboneof the main island, ne{ coast, overlooking the Japan Sea and distant Siberia, is often buried under from 10 to 20 ft. of snow. Here witness the curious spectacle of a town literally buri( sight, with sleighs traveling on the snow-crust at streets, higher than the house-tops. The inhabitants ( below through mole-like tunnels, and beneath arca( with the purpose of upholding the snow and permit people to conduct their daily business despite the e The KurchshiwOf that warm stream which flows past th ese islands to Kamchatka and the Pacific Coast of Ame which perchance carried on its dark bosom (comp. the prototypes of the first Americans, makes of the Coast of Japan a floral paradise where the horticu ancient and wonderful art attains its finest achie Whole mountain-sides, gorges^ lowlands, and plains peted at times with graceful lilies-of-the-valley, wild ^ columbine, flaming azaleas, clematis, ferns, and such : flowering trees and shrubs that a book would be ne catalogue them. It is essentially a land of plum, pea( and cherry blossoms, and one where acres and acre and lotus and chrysanthemums bedeck the country is and where in autunm the hill-slopes are so scarlet wi ing maples that they resemble volcanoes turned wro out. The wild flowers of Ikao and other mt. resc almost as numerous and as charming as those of Cape Perched amid some of these floral groves, at vantag( whence ravishing and romantic seascapes are visible, gorpeous mausolea of the dead shoguns; richly ai bancally adorned with paintings and sculptures, and gilded dragons, and with oratories equipped ^ the glittering paraphernalia of Indian Buddhism; € ing in its Oriental .suggestiveness, and of a fascinatii ticism.

It would be futile to attempt to classify all the beaut for they are legion; to be seen at their best, many of the be visited at certain seasons, when they flame like g sunsets before retiring into temporary eclipse. It thus 1 that months can be spent in Japan without exhaustin; tractions. Months must, in fact, be spent here if the ' would see it in all its seasonal moods, for art is so leagu nature that every month has its special captivating Tjbe JuatrouB blue skies that produce mild, sunny, I

[-

PLAN OF TOUR Hx

Jan. days from TOkyO to KjrOshtk, oftentimes coax out the Feb. pbm blooms before their time, and they are quickly followed oythe peach bloflfloms in Marcn, the pear and cherry blooms of i^iril (when the land is a veritable paradise), the gorgeous wistaria of May, theirises of winsome JT une, the regal peonies of My, the sultana-like lotuses of Aug., the statelv chiysanthe- muinsof Sept. and Oct.. the wondeniil maples of Nov. and the etoar, flower-fleoked Inaiannsummer-like days of crisp Decem- ber. Ihterapersed are a host of other flowers and picturesque tahrals that are ^wa^fs a delight to the stranger. In some (firtricts flowers bloom in the open all the year round, as the lo-oined winter of the Pacific (Joast south of Tokyo is naught bat a polite term to express a season of bright, fresh, brilliant days, and sharp, sleepful nights. For weeks in the spring a hvdy opalescent haxe is apt to veil the snow-crowned peaks, mdering views of ti^em impossible. Thus many a traveler to Japan in spring; sees nothing at all of Fuji^an or the other doud-capped giants of the Central Range — unless, indeed, he lets himself to watch constantly and chances to get a furtive llbipse of them between passing cloud groups. Nikk5 is in- dnded in the itinerary of almost every traveler to Japan, but iriiosoever sees it in spnns and fails to return in the summer nd penetrate to beautifm and restful Chuzenji; to the still Bore distant Fufitoto, and thence onward over the Konsei Pcl88 iolkao ; or fails even to see it in autumn when it is clad in its Kailet coat of turning maples, or in winter when it lies white and still beneath its snowy mantle of royal ermine, can- not be said to know it. Nor does one appreciate the full beauty of the splendid waterfalls of the region, which thunder in their nmmer soUtudes but are hushed and frozen in winter.

Although the Japanese class Matsushinuiy Miyajimay and AmanohtishidcUe as the 'Threb Great Siohts/ two at least of these san-kei (3 scenes or views) are apt not to prove such to * the average Occidental. Matsushimaf unquestionably the loveliest of the trio, possesses an irresistible charm, but the man from the forceful and mightv West usually regards the rugged beauty of the little-traveled Hokkaido, with its strange, sad- faeed Ainu (lees of a mysterious aboriginal race) , its entrancing aeacoasts and views, its primeval, grizzly-bear haunted forests, and its spouting volcanoes and semi-arctic characteristics, of eoualif not of greater interest: likewise the incomparable Nikko with its barbarically splendid mausolea and its groves of won- derful trees. The graceful and beguiling charm of old Kyoto. — the practically unchanged imperial citv where the heart of (Md Japan beat tor upwara of a thousand, years, — or that of ■onmolent but historic Nara , with its unique museum and its eokMsal bronze Buddha, makes a singularly strong appeal. Ifftoyi too, will want to ^o Again and again to Kamakura, the At^Otoffa capital; to see its wonderful Daibxitsu ;

ix PLAN OF TOUR

itiirvEnoshima, its pendent pearl; and the glory of its seacoafit back^ by tlie peerless Fuji-san, The veiy permanence of these and many other places in Japan appeals to the materialistic westerner, much more than the somewhat fugitive charms of the «an-m, which are dependent upon the tranquillity of the adjacent sea to enhance their feminine graces. The stem but majestic outlines of certain of the stupendous volcanic ranges whose sublimely beautiful, sky-scraping ramparts reluctantly doff their arctic caps, and the trembling, agonizing volcanoes themselves are infinitely more suggestive of strength and pu]> pose than the softer charms of the languorous Lake ofOmi, or even the exquisite but capricious Inland Sea. Peaceful Shoji, tucked away in its half-forgotten fold of Fuji* 8 sweeping skirts, has a singular trick of gripping the heart of the nature-lover and of luring him back to the winsome bosom of its almost fathomless lake; and few indeed are the travelers who, having once seen Ikao and Haruna, Kusatsu and Karuizawa, Aso-san and the Riviera-like Beppu, but wish to return to them over and over again.

Most travelers to Japan will wish to see one at least of the great white feudal castles — those massively fortified and moat^ncircled structures which make such spendidly im- posing pictures in the green landscape, and which speak so eloquentlv of shogun and samuraif and of the ronin and war- riors of the olden days. One of the finest and most accessible of these is at Nagoya, and the immense structure, when seen, makes a lasting impression. The above are but a few of the age-old fascinations of this singularly attractive land; one ^ich has gained the good will of peaceful and progressive na- tions by the urbanity of its people; its pleasing national life; the proud position which its honorable government occupies on the world's stage ; the irresistible allurements of its temples, gardens, mountains, and seas; and its acknowledged su- premacy in those gentle arts and refinements which sweeten existence and add to its amenity.

Few countries of the world possess a past so far-reaching and a history more interesting than that of Japan. And in few countries are there so many existing relics of the early years of the nation's life. Not many peoples cling as pertinaciously to the old customs as do the Nipponese, and many of these are inextricably and picturesquely interwoven in their daily lives. Almost every street of a Japanese town is as suggestive of ihe Middle Ages as it is of the 20th century, and this mediseval flavor usually possesses a special charm for the Westerner. The mt. peaKs, the valleys, the ancient groves, the temples, lakes, castles, and palaces are all steeped in mytholo^ or storied romance, while petrographic reminders of the twilight history of the people exist in many forms — stone or bronie lanterDB, statuary or monuments of warriors and bonzes, ele.

PLOT ar< TODB u

Btedo not U6k down frtmi ttiNsry hiU^^ ttlistoond indeed away in sacred tibiokete, in oaves or In val- hn^oaidands, and eren on the loftiest mt. tonk vaoetoonntriBs'tlie pendty of travel is tonnd tiungsnot

SMI tbose di our dreams'' but this can scaredy be mid of «iipHi;for of iaU the Inilfiaint emtnres of the opulent Elast it is psliie most attractive and the meet satisf yinj;. Many ill too saUsfying, and are thus remindedof the significant dMoL: ' travding is one of the saddest pleasures in life.' For loMi Japan and team its charm is equivdent to drinking the wrim-of Quadalupe; the craving to return is implanted, and tAmwrii to be appeased. Perhi^ in no countrv of the world ktee, witlun the same neerrow lunits, so much that is beauti- Uand interesting^ and w<many readily accessible dghts. Its — wiins and art salleries, its temples and mausolea, are rich itths aeeimnilated treasures of the ages; and as a fitting corol- Iv^r^lifein Japan is something so placid and kindly ana gentle Ik it is just like one of liiose dreams, in which everybody is |Md4iatured about everything.'

■ There is a peeuliar charm about Tramfinq in Japan, one ■ibrtanatefy Detter known to the sinewy and endunng Brit- |irand Gennan than to the time-begruddng, comfort-eeek- Nl American*^ who too often feels that where a jinriki can't p, he won't go. It is indubitably true that fb» traveler who iMHslio Japan unprepared to walk over some of its lofty knt. Mns, and to penetrate on foot to some of the remote places Mantouchedby the blightinj; hand of progress, — for a first- ■md glimpse of one of the ^uamtest civilizations the world has pnxiaced, — loses somethmg which the sometime treaty-jwrts ttDnot make up to him — for the heterogeneous treaty-ports Btrmore reflect the life of rural Nipxwn than Barcelcma does %t of AndaludJEk, or Paris that of Provence. Those who love to view the world from its high and wild places will find the pukoramas, which the eye surveys from many of the ^at ele- ctions of the Japanese mts., so entrancingfy beautiful that, meta^ioricallv speaking, they would send the blood coursine aad tmgling through the veins of a stone Buddha. For a fuU and Qomplete enjosrment of these trips one should start prac- tioaDy baggageless, care-free, and happy, with a heart attuned to the ifa^hm of uie universe, and with imchecked joy bub- bfing up from the soul. The man who will be oblivious to slight penoDal discomforts, who will sing the rollicking songs of his yevth as lie l^ampe blithdy over the grand, suent, upland ddnstor oyer knife ridges thousands of feet above the quaint lamlBtB, dimpling lakes, or the dreamy sea below, will take out ft new lease on life and drop ten years from his shouldiers. "nasilitig not at the mediaeval character of some of the way- -veritable relics of feudal times — and by ra^atmit te whknfmrbe goe$, he will he surptML at the

hdi PLAN OF TOUR

abiding picturesqueness of the country and the intensely hx man character of the Quakerish people.

The Japanese are inveterate trampers, and the women an children are as confirmed in the habit as the men. They swan across their lovely country like Teutons in the Tyrol, thr^M ing the magnificent forests and climbing the highest peal with a fearlessness and an agility which commands the adm ration. Even on the loneliest mt. trail one will sometimi meet or overtake travel-stained pilgrims or Buddhist pries) in yellow robes and with jingling staffs seeking some aistai shnne; a bespectacled Japanese professor hunting bugs < butterflies; an Austrian army officer with rucksack and pu teeSf * doing ' Japan on his furlough ; or ^oung soldiers mappiu the region or surveying for a military mghroad. On the mail traveled roads one is scarcely ever out of sight of peasants i bonzes; groups of holiday-making students shouting for tl pure joy of being alive, or leaping and gamboling like frisk young chamois; embassy attaches or newspaper men out of tii grind for a brief respite, or bands of schoolboys or girls herdc by some benevolent tutor who points out the beauty spots < leads them in person (an excellent German idea) to some ha lowed place, some volcano or sacred peak, so that thev may m it with their own eyes and become more patriotic and wiser f< having done so.

The lure of these inland places, particularly to the lover < fine scenery, is irresistible. An experience in one's life whk is not easily forgotten is the twilight of certain of these halcyo days when the wayfarer, tired but happy, with one or moi scenic scalps hanging at his belt, reaches his quaint inn with i whole-hearted welcome and its cheer, and listens to the ha|^ chatter and the tales of the day 'sad ventures of those who for

gather there. The average tourist who sticks closely to tl esh-pots of the foreign ports, or treads safely and contented] the beaten tracks of travel, recks little, indeed, of the grea ever-flowing^ stream of picturesque life that pulses steadij through a\\ the hi^ways and byways of rural Japan. Happy the man who counts in his recollections the records of some t these country hikes. Nor will he soon forget what wholly ai mirable and cheerful companions the Japanese pilgrims mak and how easy it is to understand them, when, as it so oftc happens, the quondam friend speaks a few score words of Enj lish, and understands as readily the other few score Japanei words the traveler knows. For hours they may tramp togethi talking on many subjects; repeating words over and over, hal ing and gesticulating; now stopping to trace out an idea in tl dust of the road, the while getting the gist of the other's drif kindling friendships that last through years, and each amasc and secretly pleased at his efficiency in the other's langua^ It Is an uDadulteraXed joy to get away from the hybrid treat]

PLAN OF TOUR Ixui

ports with their ignoble, clashing ambitions, and to tread the nreet countryside where strange flowers bloom, rivulets chat- tv and sparkle, the sunlisht glints on a distant sail, and a gntk breeze sighs wistf ufly through the fragrant pines and OTptomerias. No one can be said to have seen Japan who has bA taken such jaunts; who has not tramped through the KyQM wonderland; over the old Yamato trails; through sin- 0008 paths to Kdy(i-8an; to the remote valleys of Echigo and Skmmo; or to the singular Ainu settlements of fascinating

Contrary to the accepted belief, travel to the chief places of A^Mui is easy. The difficulties which are supposed to arise wsa a lack of knowledge of the spoken language have been OBggerated. The constant efforts of the railway manage- ■ent^ the hotelmen, the different tourist bureaus, and of pri- vate mdividuals, seconded by the ever alert newspapers, have wrought many excellent changes and improvements. The rail- n3n! in particular have been indefatigable in their efforts to niiumize the friction of travel, and they propose to stop only iten Jai)an is made into a second Switzerland for tourists. Rom their private schools they have stationed English-speak- ■g employees in almost all the chief points where [travelers wegather, and this language may be said now to be widely ^ol^n. Nearly everv hotel in the Empire has one or more em- ployees who can talk in English to foreign guests, and the toivist cannot wander far afield without hearing it spoken. Tlie Japanese have the Oerman's genius for making the trav- eler comfortable on the sea, and every year sees more luxurious Mttd speedy steamers added to the already excellent coastwise and deep-sea service. In many of the remote regions of the idands the speedy railway and the electric trolley are pushing aside the hasha and the jinrikij and excellent highroads now pridiron the land from Yezo to Kyushu. The improvements m the hotels and inns are almost as marked as those in the transportation system, and many unlooked-for conveniences are accorded the traveler in both. The highways by day or nig^t are safer than certain of the thoroughfares of Chicago or the French metropolis.

In few countries are travelers treated with greater individual consideration. The average Japanese is usually so pleased to find foreigners interested m his homeland and its civilization that he is apparently never too busy to describe them. This friendly spirit animates the nation from the topmost official of the mtensely aristocratic but non-snobbish (and never ser- vile) government down to the humblest peasant; and one of the most winning traits of the people is their impersonal polite- leiB and their readiness to be helpful and friendly, partic\]daE\y towaid those who approach Japan and its institutions in a 9Ut ol annable tolerance And good will. It can truthfully Y>e

hSv PLAN OF TOUR

said of the Japanese that no people can be more obHgme whoi once they learn what is wanted of them. The overcrowding in street-cars^ the manifest lack of deference to women, the hurry to appropriate the best seat in a train, or the abominable habits of certain of the proletariat, are due to ignorance and a millen- nium of training, less than to selfishness and immodesty. For when one reflects upon the brutal and inhuman treatment meted out by the swashbuckling military to the inoffensive, law-abiding peasantry during the centuries which preceded the Meiji era, one marvels at the perfect courtesy and winsomenesB of their modem descendants.

To conduct personally a forei^er through a temple or a museum, or even to accompany him on foot from one town to another, sdems to be the duty and pleasure of many Japanese one meets. At times much of this naive willingness to help is positively embarrassing. Does one question a passing bonze, a student, or some other good soul regarding a temple miles away, that person is apt instantly to assure the questioner that he is going to tbat spot himself, and despite all remonstrances he will trudge along a blistering country pike for miles in the sun, happ^ in the companionship of some one to whom he may be of service, or from whom he may pick up a few words of En^* lish — for which the Japanese have a passion. To offer a fee is often to offend a well-meaning person. It happens sometimes that a schoolboy anxious to gratify an innocent pride and shine as a linguist among his townspeople will constitute himself a guide and will stick like a burr to a stranger who does not need him and who wishes fervently, without appearing rude, to dis- lodge him. The Japanese express this embarrassing politeness by Arigata-^meiwaku (literally: ^useless kindness, or a gift indifferent to, or even detrimental to the receiver). Coimtry priests will, as a rule, show the interested stranger into every nook and cranny of the vast temple in their charge, beam with pleasure when one praises some wonderful wood carving or painting^ and if need be, bring out the temple records written m beautifully S3rmmetrical ideographs and help to identify the objects one by one. Because of the special facilities for making travelers to Japan comfortable, and due also to other causes, the Empire is rapidly becoming a summer rendezvous for the wilted, sunbaked women and children of the Chinese and East Indian httorak. Many of them spend the hottest summer months in the cool mt. resorts, or at some of the many mineral springs in the country, and return to their semi-equatorial homes in the autumn. Because of this returning tide of travel, certain of the steamships plying between the southern ports and China are liable to be full at specified times (reference ia made to this at Nag(i9aki), Warships of the different nations stationed in East Indian waters often steam up the Japan coast nrJien life becomcB almost unendurable at Hongkong and

xxiURIST SOCIETIES Ixv

elsewhere, and when the sailoFB swann on shore at the ports th^ add a decidedly picturesque element to the native life. Many of the places of interest in Central Japan are within relatively short distances of one another. Tokyd is but 18 M. (i hr.) from Yokohama; Ikao is 7^ hrs. ; Ky5to 11, and Kobe 12 luB. — with good and frec^uent rly. service. Nikk5 is 4^ hrs. from Tokyo ; and Matsushima, the finest of the Hhree sights/ about 8 hirs. The traveler who lands at Yokohama and plans to proceed later to China and the S. can arrange his trips through the N. part of the island and visit Kamakura, Kyoto, Nara, Kobe, etc.; on his way S., without having to double on his tracks. On the other hand, those who approach the country from China or Korea may visit the chief intervening places en route northward. The interchangeable railway-steamship tickets are referred to at p. Ixxxiii. Tiie Gov't Rlys. sell circular tickets which include many places of interest, and Thos. Cook & 8<m; Minami ASons; the CoUver Tours Co., Raymond & Whitr- oofRO Co., and other tourist agencies arrange tours of different lengths, independent, personally conducted, or otherwise; with or without guides. The specimen toiurs advertised by them taxif^ from a few places to be visited within 10 days to an ex- tensive trip occup^ng 6 weeks. The itineraries followed are ihown in their special booklets. From Feb. to early June, and from Sept. to Nov. are the popular seasons in Japan, albeit ttie country is now regarded as an all-the-year-round resort. Thegreatest influx of travelers, takes place in March and early ipril7 coincident with the blossoming of the cherry trees; and in Oct. and Nov., when the changing maples are in their prime. At this time come those travelers from America bound ulti- mately for British India and the East Indies — where travel is comfortable during the short winter months only. The hotels are likely to be filled in the spring and autunm, and it is ad- visable to bespeak accommodations.

The Japan Totirist Bureau, with headquarters in the Im- perial Gov't Rly. building at Tokyo, is of interest to travelers, t was organized in 1912 under the auspices of the Gov't Rlys.^ W Sovih Manchuria Rly.j the Nippon Yusen Kaisha, the oyo Risen Kaisha^ and the Imperial Hotel (of ToWo). Its jef aim is to be of assistance to visiting tourists, to which end ices that will eventually evolve into free Information Bu- ns are being established in the various cities of Japan, rea, Manchuria, and Formosa. Other objects are to improve transportation service; build new and better hot^'ls; adver- Japan abroad; suppress questionable practices on the part erchants and innkeepers, etc. The association is of a nigh :, and tourists may find it of material use.

e Welcome Society of Japan (Kihin Kai) founded m with headquarters at Tokyd, has for its object the v^eV ig of foreiigD visitors to Japan and the rendering oi aaaaV

Ixvi CLIMATE AND MONSOONS

ance during their stay. While the founders pay (toward its upkeep) an annual fee of 5 yen, tourists are asked to pay 3 ffsn, in return for which they and their families receive all the privi- leges of the societ^r. They are supplied with booklets, maps, letters of introduction, passes to landscape gardens, museums, temples, and the like, where such are necessary, and with what- ever information thev may wish. Guides are hired, piurchases made, etc., and badges and certificates of membership are given. The society has the support of the Imperial Japanese Household, and is backed by men of the highest integrity. It is not mtended as a money-makmg mstitution.

Climate. The odd physical configuration of Japan gives it a niunber of temperatures and several distinct (and uncertain) climates. Its great length (about 2000 M. from Kamchatka| in the semi-Arctic region, to Formosa^ in the semi-tropics), ana the variety of its orographical constitution, account, in part, ^ for the lacK of uniformity in the climate. This is particularly so 1/ between the opposite extremes of the Main Island, whicn is \ It long and in places narrow; is flanked by seas, and has a chain of I7 high mts. along its spine. The Kuriles, which are related to VH Siberia in situation and climate, are cold; Central Japan is y h temperate; and Formosa is hot. The climates are influenced \ strongly by the winds which blow over from Siberia, by the gales which whip down from the Arctic Circle; by the mon- soons ^ and'typhoons (comp. Seasons) which blow up from the China Sea; and by the whims of the mysterious Kuro-Bhiwo (which see), which may, by setting closer to the Nippon shore, or by swinging roimd some newly formed volcano on tne ocean's floor, bring summer weather to E. Japan in midwinter, hasten or delay the customary seasons, or alter normal conditions by an appreciable number of degrees. The rainfall, which is above the average in most countries, varies greatly in different years. A noteworthy fact is that in certain districts these seasons neither begin nor end in consonance with the dates the Japan- ese set for them. The great imperative call of the young year may bring the plum blossoms out in all their beauty in Feb., and the land may be redolent of spring and bright with other flowers, yet the season may be ended by April snowstorms in T5ky5, or flurries in Nikk5, even in May. to the astonishment of the cherry blooms and the disgust of the heliophilous child- ren. Blizzards will sometimes screech over the Hokkaid5 while summer loiters amid the pines and palmettoes of Suruga, or along the lovely shores of the Inland Sea.

^ Monsoons (Arabic, Afatmm, 'strong wind'). In the China Sea the Southwest Monsoon begins about the end of April and lasts until the middle of Oct. ; it continues longer to the southward of 11° N. lat. than farther to the northward. This monsoon is not so strong as the Northeast Monsoon, which oommences in Sept. in the N. part of the China Sea but rarely reaches the 8. jMut until Noy. It generally bursts with a gale and blows heavily eastward oiFormoBA in Deo.-Feh. It ends in March.

SEASONS ' Ixvll

The sway of the monsoons is disputed by the equatorial eorrent, and its W. branch, the Tsushima current, both of which aid to produce cooler summers and milder winters, and considerable moisture throughout the year. In KytlshQ the alleged winter sometimes faUs entirely to put in an appearance, and a slowing atmosphere of gold and blue broods above flower-decked meadows and seas as lovely as those of SicHy or Greece. Onlv abnormal weather brings snow and cold to the coast of this favored island. '

Seasons. Japan proper recognizes two seasons; the nyvbai' (pron. new^y')t or rainy season, and the dry season {kawaku). /Qthough the former is supposed to begin June 1 1 and extend over 2 or 3 weeks, in reality it commences in April and gradu- ally acquires such enthusiasm that in June it rains as if 'the bottom had dropped out of things, then continues through July and even into Aug., before it slacks to a sniffling, spas- modic drizzle. Throughout the summer, therefore, one may confidently expect 1 day in 3 to be rainy^ and oftentimes 12-- 14 out of the month. For the traveler m Japan to wait for clear days is like stepping into a doorway on the Strand and waiting for the crowd to pass. While the emphatic quality of Qie Japanese climate is wetness, the nyubai is sui generis, for it is of a mugginess unknown anywhere in the United States. To prevent spots and ruin, kid gloves, chiffon, dainty leather things, furs, etc., must be put in air-tight receptacles; the heat (in Yokohama, T5ky5, etc.) takes the starch out of things generally, makes the silver-plating on knives and spoons buckle and peel, rusts iron and steel, causes fungi landscapes to grow on dress-suits, leather valises^ and cloth- ing hung in dark closets, spoils cigarettes not sealed her- metically in tins, mildews many things, and fills one with a lassitude difficult to shake off. On sunny days the streets are strewn with raised umbrellas and other objects set out to dry, and balconies are draped with clothing, bed-covering, and the like. Heat prostrations are rare; the nights are tempered by sea-breezes, and the air generally is devoid of the deadly qualities of July in New York or the middle West of the U.S.A. The excessive rains cause serious fluvial irregularities that send rivers surging and dashing out of their banks to waste the land, inflict serious damage on the railways, and oftentimes flood T5ky5, with considerable destruction to life and property. While essential to the rice crop and to the general fertility of the land, these rains constitute one of the sorrows of the coun- try. While T5ky6 is classed as one of the dryest places in the country,* it has 58 inches of yearly rainfall (against 125 in. of B. E. KvHshti), and parts of the city are often submerged be- neath the torrential downpours.

Tlie bc^nning of the end of the nyubai is ushered in with \,\ie {9O0'^ou) or bat'U, which the Japanese ^say comes w\t\i

Ixviii ' TYPHOONS

the stealthiness of mist but goes out with peals of thunder. It is a gloomy, muggy, lowering, sticky, Toiny season which jangles delicate nerves and makes fat men peevish and profane — particidarly when it is accompanied (as is often the case) by a big, ]&TTmgjishin (earthquake) . The humidity is more trying than the heat j and at this period certain improperly balanced folks develop suicidal tendencies. The leisurely traveler will do well to secure comfortable quarters in a good hotel, elimi* nate brain-storms and cocktails, and ^ sit tight ' till the clouds pass, for traveling in the interior is fraught with wettings, vexations, and delays. The native inns provide no fires by which to dry one's clothing ; the swollen streams wash out the highways ; no rain-coat will keep out the driving, slanting, pen- etrating wet; the inns are the acme of cheerlessness, and the lack of refrigerated refreshments makes a huge void in one's existence. The mornings are sometimes bright, and in moun- tainous districts trips should be planned accordingly, since thunderstorms are apt to break between 3 and 5 p.m. Plums begin to ripen about this time and the cries of the fruit- vender are heard in the land j the yellowish-green product looks colicky to foreigners, but it is a time-honored custom in Yedo for the people to buy them, and the combination of green fruit and hot days no doubt increases the death-roll in the^metropolis. The DoyOj or period of greatest heat, is supposed to begin July 20, and end about Aug. 10, and for Japanese and foreigners it is the most trying time of the year. The farmers attach great im- portance to the first 3 days, believing that if these be broiling, the crops will be good. While the thermometers of Tokyo run into the 90*s, a sort of hushed expectancy fills the souls of the

geople, for Neptune's wrath in the shape of the dreaded sea- red revolving storms known as typhoons break over the land at this time and render the most phlegmatic a bit nervous. The elements scourge the country as it they bore a grudge against it ; they seem possessed of the many demons which glare from the mynad temples, and they snatch the tiles from the house-roofs, uproot trees, demolish fences, and send crystal rods of rain darting against the ground as if they would trans- fix it.

l^hoons (TaifQ), prolonged cyclonio storms of great intensity, that cor- respond to the West Indian humcanes which occur in the same latitudes in the W. hemisphere, pass along the Japanese seaboard in July, Aug., and Sept., and sometimes do great damage to property on land and sea. Some beueve the name is derived from the Chinese ta-fung, or ' great wind,' while others prefer to think it associated with Typhon, in Greek mythology the son of Tt/phoiuSt and the father of the winds. The 3-4 typhoons which thrash the coast of Japan and Korea each year usually originate E. of Formosa and thence travel N., passing over or near the Nansei group of islands. Having ■arrived at the parallel of 30<^ N., the majority curve to the N.E. through Van Diemen Strait, and continue in that direction either along or over the S. and S.E. coasts of Japan, and out into the Pacific Ocean. Some, having gained iAe B.E. /Bade of KyQshtl, recurve to the N. through Bungo Channel, or juxroas to Sbikoku and up the Kii Channel, thence passing across the Inland

SEASONS box

Sea and the W. part of Hondo in a N. course, reach the Sea of Jai>an, where they foUow tiie coaat and pass out to sea through Tsugaru Strait. The mean rate at which the centers of typhoons travel in Japan is from 5 to 35 M. per hour, although some acquire the extraordinary velocity of 100 M. If those with a velocity of less than 10 M. per hour be termed slow, and those with a velocity greater than 15 M. per hour quick, then three fourths of the Japan- ese tsrphoons are quick and one fourth slow. Those of July-Aug. are usually, though not always, slow ones; while those of Sept. and Oct. are quick. The fierce ones are csdlcd (by the Chinese) ti^ kU, or ' iron whirlwinds. 'j Some of those which visit Japan do not spend their fury at sea, but reserve it for the land and cause inmiense damage. Contrary to the general impression a * weU-f ormed ' typhoon is not merely a gale of wind with a calm spot in the center. These caun rings may have a diameter of anywhere from 2 M. to 50 M., belted by a ring generally less than a mile wide in which light winds pre- vul, and with a sort of outer shell anywhere from 200 to 1000 M. thick, where the real force lies. This force treats great ships as if they were corks, and usually levels everything in its path. Its movement is indicated^ by the barometer and an instrument known as the barocyclonometer, which indi- cates by needles like those of a compass the direction of the typhoon. Japan is usually apprised several days in advance of the coming of a typhoon, and storm signals along the coast warn the seamen. An irregular movement of the barometer, followed by a fall; also a rapid rise followed by a fall, perhaps unsteady at first, are suspicious signs. Oppressive heat accompanied by a hasy atmosphere, a halo round the sun, hvid tints at sunset, heavy leaden clouds, and fitful gusts of wind and rain are some signs of the approach of a t^hoon; also a broken irre^ar sea or swell generally from a different direc- tion from the wind. The mhabitants of the China coast, who also suffer greatly frc»n typhoons, say that a few days before one comes on, a slight noise is heard at intervals, whirling round and then stopping, 'sometimes impetuous and sometimes slow. This is a ' typhoon brewing.' The normal pressure in Japan during the typhoon months is about 29.84 inches in July- Aug.; 29.92 in Sept.; or from 29.88 in W. KyushQ to 29.96 in S. E. Yeso during that month, and 30.04 inches in Oct. A doggerel by which for- eigners in Japan remember the typhoon months runs thus: * June too soon; July look shy; August you must; September remember; October all over.' It is estimated that an average of 472 persons are killed in Japan by storms each year. The great annual Sept. gale — ' The gigantic Storm wind of the equinox' — is accountable for much of this damage. This line storm, of the autumnal equinox (ShUbun), the most dreaded of rail, comes at a critical time for the farmers; the Nihyaku-toka, the 210th day from the beginning of the first spring month according to the old calendar, usually falls on Sept. 1 or 2, when the early variety {waae) of rice is in bloom and ready to change from flower to grain. If a typhoon occurs at this time (which usually happens), and but a fifth of the crop is damaged, it means a mone- tuy loss of more than 100 million yen. The storm damage to crops is usually enormous in Sept., for ten days after the Nihyaku-toka comes the Nihyaku- hatsuka, or period when the middle Fcrop (nakate) rice is in bloom and the late rice (oktUe) is coming to maturity. The buckwheat (soba) crop can also suffer serious damage in this month and influence throughout the year the cost of the macaroni made from it. The line storm often brings tidal waves in its trail to the coasts of Mie, Shizuoka, Kanagawa, and Chiba prefectures. Odawara and Tokyo sometimes suffer considerably from these visitations.

The hot days after the doyo are oftentimes hotter than their prototypes; they correspond to our * dog-days* and are called zansho, or ' remaining heat.' The rain now falls intermittently, and heavy storms of 2-3 days' duration are often features of the season. Bursts of fine weather follow them, and about mid- September a cool tang is noticeable in the air; along with it oome persistent downpours (which often last through to mid- October) and cause Sept. to be considered (in the Yokohama- T0ky5 region) the rainiest month oi the year (against January M the dryest). A sort of Indian Summer called KoKaru

Ixx SEASONS

C Little Spring') is now ushered in, with mild weather and a splendor mdescribable. The whole land sparkles and glistens Wne a sunlit jewel. The grieving clouds are gone; the weeping, soaking rains have been replaced by dry, clear, crisp weather, which IS not only beautiful for mountain tramping or country- trips, but is the most trustworthy of the year for sight-seeing. The displays of chrysanthemums and other autumnal flowers are gorgeous beyond compare, and are worth coming across the wond to see. Snow is apt to fall after the 2d week in Oct. from NildcS N., and travelers to Yezo or SaghaUen may find the cold imconifortable. Many of the mts. don their winter capes of ermine in Sept. and Oct., and in the latter month (harvest-time) the temple courts are usually yellow with the brilliant falling leaves of the icho trees. The Nov. and Dec. days in Central Japan are fine and still, with a tang of frost about their edges; brilliant sunshine is a constant feature, and it seems to possess a golden quality not observed elsewhere. Nov. is called MomijirdzuH (* red-leaf month '), and to many is the most delightful of the year; the maple displays (magnificent at Ky5to) should be seen by every stranger to Japan. During this season of wonderful calm the trying summer is forgotten and the Japanese omit to search the sky for weather indications or to remark: * Taukini murakumo hanani haze' — *No perfec- tion can be looked for when clouds cross the moon or the wind sways the flowers.'

Jan., Feb., and March bring snow flurries in Tokyo and Yoko- hiuna, but tne white mantle does not harmonize with the cam- cAias which bloom throughout the year in the open, nor with the dainty plum blossoms which come out in Jan. ; and it does not remain long upon the groimd. The midwinter {chuto) tem- perature is raw and penetrating, with excessive humidity, rather than extreme cold. To a German or a New Englander it is an amiable farce, and but httle like the winters of Dresden or Boston. The period of so-called greatest cold begins in late Jan. and ends early in Feb. ; it is called daikarij to differen- tiate it from the short period of 'small cold' {ahokan) which follows it. Winter's dying gasp is called yokan, or 'remaining cold.' The Japanese take the daikan seriously. Although the thermometer may range anywhere between 30** and 60" (Fahr.) above, they bimdle up in greatcoats oftentimes heavily Uned with fur; wear thick and bushy rabbit-skin ear-flaps; bury heads and necks in voluininous coat collars, and convince themselves that they are in imminent danger of frost-bite — just as the people of N. Japan and Yezo are in reality. To the average red-blooded foreigner a spring overcoat is a burden, and old Sol seems to smile sardomcally at the native effort to keep teeth from chattering. The vernal season with all its glorious promise begins March 18, and the 7 days which inter- Fene between wioter and spring are called Uigan, and are

BEA80N8 ^ hzi

dediealMl to tho wonhip of Buddha. The phim Uossoms a&d thonl^tiiigide — haifoingmof Bining,aatliei^8taiJaaiidthe muSaoo are of mininier — are now amoad, and the Japanese mjt 'The winter is past, and the iroice of the turtle is hesid in omrlaiML'

Tlie mean tempefatuie is about 40^ in Jan.; 38^ in Feb.: 44^ fa& Maieh; 54"* m Ai^nl; 62'* in May; es"" in June; 75"* m Julv; 7y hi Aug. (with a mean maxiininn <rf 86^); 71^ m Sept; 60** in Oet; SOP m Nov., and 41"* in Dec. About 140 days of each year are rainy, and' 148 nijghts are f roster. Snow falls about 12 times durins uie year (4 in Jan. and 4 in Feb.), but it rarely lallB throughout any one dav or night. Thunderstonns are aeitiier fimmoit nor violent; from 4 to 10 occur in Yokohama eaeh year. In the Inland Sea the heaviest rainfall is in June; OD the S.W. coast oi EytkshU from A^pH to June. Most rain idls in the 8. E. part ol Japan, especially on the £. coasts of KyOflha and ffliikoku, where the annual! quantity reaches an Kveta^ of 100 inches. Fogs are frequent along the Pacific eoast m q>ring and summor, and ihey often id«ilise the sea and shore

An entirely different set of conditions i»evailB at the N., and be^nd the great barrier range which separates TOky<V from the fiea of Japm, Here, where tne country is not influ^ced by the eqaatoriiu current, and is exposed to the fierce Iberian winds, ifgofous winter (Oenkan) prevails. Often while flowers are blooming at T0l^5 and the W., entire villages in the provinces of Shinano, Echigo, Uzen, and Mutsu are buried under 10 ft. or more of snow, and the people are forced to follow their voca- tions in the curious manner described at p. Iviii. Here 5-6 ft. of snow may remain on the ground for weeks on end^ whHe the 15-20 ft. drifts in the valleys and ravines snow-m the rly. trains and hold them prisoners for days at a time. The lofty mts. are all snow-covered, and the contrast between the frost- bound giants and the sniiling, summer-like landscape of the Pacific Slope is complete. From some of these mts. the snow melts and disappears only when the summer is exceptionally warm. Usuallv these are like the summers of T5ky5, oppres- sively hot. Tne summer temperature of Niigata varies but little from that of T5ky5, while the winters are many degrees eolder; quite Arctic in their severity. The provinces between the Japan Sea and the Pacific present remarkable peculiarities of dimate; in the valleys deep snow covers the ground through- out the winter, and the sky is wrapped in a dark veil of cloims, 00 that bri^t days are a rarity. The traveler who stands on one of the high passes of the Central Mt. Range in Dec, mid- way between the Japan Sea and Tdky5, will note with surprise while toward the Pacific the skies may be blue and the air p. with a suggestion of spring, deep-gray clouds biood •^■the kmdj^ Japan Sea. Many ot the people oi tba

Ixxii

STORM SIGNALS

toast sit in the upper rooms of their houses in order to enjoy the daylight. Shmano is a region of blizzards that are a bane to the rly. company. On tlj^e W. coast there are two months of maximum rainfall, July and Nov.

The frigid winters of the N. are 6-7 months long, with a correspondingly late spring, and occasionally a cool summer. Heavy, warm snows sometunes fall thickly and softly in Cen- tral Japan, between Yokohama and Kobe, but they disappear quickly. The relative moisture is greater in the S. of Japan than at the N.; on the average it amoimts to 82% for the warm season, 71% for the cold, and 76% for the year. The rainy season of early summer begins later and later as we go N., and finally coalesces in Yezo (where it is neither so hot nor so wet) with the autunm rains. — When a drought is feared in rural Japan, the peasant farmers send out parties to climb mt. peaks and pray for rain. Men with good limgs make their way to shrines aedicated to the mt. goblins, and, with branches of creeping-pine brought up from below, make bonfires, and give a mimic representation of the kind of storm they would like. If the sculptured idol in the shrine fails to take heed of their supplication, he is not unfrequently dragged out and

E itched headforemost into an evil-smelling paddy-field, so that e may know how it feels to need water! To facilitate a ready understanding of its weather reports the Meteorological Observatory has divided Japan into 10 dis- tricts, as follows: (1) Formosa and the Loochoo Islands; (2) S. half of Kyushu and Shikoku Islands; (3) Inland Sea; (4) N.W. Kyushu and the W. coast of the Main Island as far N. as Kyoto; (5) from Iseto Tokyo and the Tonegawa; (6) the interior provinces to the N. of the 5th district, from Hida on the W. to Iwashiro on the E. ; (7) the N.W. coast from Wakasa to Ugo; (8) the Pacific coast from the Tonegawa to Sendai and Miyako; (9) Rikuchti Province and the W. half of Yezo Island; (10) the E. half of Yezo and the Kurile Islands. An outline sketch of this will be found in certain of the newspapers, under the daily weather forecast.

Storm Signals as follows are shown from all the fully equipped si^ial stations on the coast of Japan.

Day signal	Night signal	Indication
Az«dbaU A red cylinder A red cone, point upward A red cone, point downward A white diamond	A led light A green light A red over a green light A green over a red light A white light	Threatening weather is ex- pected Stormy weather expected Heavy storm expected, wind shifting from E. to S. Heavy storm expected, wind shifting from £. to N. Storm warnings have been is- sued in certain other districts

HEALTH Izxiii

The^r wiU be of interjsst to travders plaiming sea trips, as high innds are apt to produce boisterous or choppy seas. Signal staffs are pamted red and white in bands. Typhoon si^nJs are made Q>y dav) from a mast with a yard, by means of shapes. colored red, used as symbols; and by night by means of colorea li^to. At Yokohama they are exposed from the French Ha- toba, and are visible from any of the hotels facing the Bund.

In addition to the above the following signals are made dur- ing daylight to indicate probable weather for the next 24 hrs. :

A white triangular flag indicates N. or N^. winds. A green triangular fla^ indicates E. and S.E. winds. A red triangular flag indicates S. or S.W. winds. A blue triangular flag indicates W. or N;W. winds. A white square fia^ indicates fair weather. A blue square flag indicates rain.j A xed square flag indicates cloudy weather. A green square flag indicates snow.

A red and white burgee indicates that strong winds or gales are probable in the neighborhood.

Health. Japan is as healthy as any countiy similarly situated, and the advanced sanitary measures insisted upon rigidly by the authorities are steadily diminishing the mortsdity returns. But as it is veary difficult to impress upon an ignorant lower class the necessity for observing hygienic rules, it devolves upon the traveler to take certain precautions to guard against the dis- eases which sometimes prevail. Of these one of the most for- midable is dysentery, a malady usually traceable to indiscreet eating or drinking. As the most persistent conveyors of the germs are water and milk^ the unimmune cannot be too stronglv cautioned against drinking either that has not been boiled. Filtering is thought not to remove the germs from water, and as the native servants are oftentimes ignorant of the most fun- damental principles of hygiene, and are as careless about pollut- ing the water-supply as they are in boiling it and then leaving it uncovered, the safest plan is to attend personally to its prep- aration or to drink one of the good mineral waters bottled m the country. Aerated water should be drunk in preference to plain water, even in private houses, and the water at rly. sta- tions should be rigorously avoided. Water in which tea is steep^ cannot be depended upon, since it is not the custom to bring it to a boil. Wells are common in Japan, and the water is apt to be dangerous. The prudent traveler will hesitate before drinking from any spring or rivulet, however clear it may look, unless he is at its source; otherwise it is almost sure to drain one or more paddy-fields fertilized with unspeakable filth; or to incur the risk of pollution higher up. Rice-fields, which necessitate water and enriching, sometimes occupy unusually h^ places, and the loftiest spring in the Empire (on the sum- mit of FvQisan), is contaimnated by thousands of pilgrims eadi year. As certain natives have no scruples against copying tiiB labels of jneiitonous articles (particularly f^-atufis) and

Ixxiv HEALTH

selling grossly adulterated shams for the.real thing, the traveler has to be on his guard constantly, as the dealers seem callous to the danger to health arising from them. Imported and lo- cally produced beers and mineral waters come in for particular attention on the part of these gentry, and so dangerous and abominable are some of the beverages Dottled by unscrupulous merchants, that the Gov't recently instituted a crusade against them, and forbade the admixture in drinks of methyl alcohol, aniline dyes, and other impure and deleterious substances. Japan is a land of natural mineral springs, but the water is not always bottled with the care which health now demands. One of the oldest, best-known, and most popular mineral waters (widely drunk by foreigners) is the Taka.radzuka Tansan. Many bottlers of mineral water use the word tansan C carbcmic acid ) on their labels, but travelers will do well to demand the original (large bottles, dairbinf 30-35 sen; smaller ones, hhbin, or chiisaiy 20 sen; spHts, 10-12 sen), since this is known to be wholesome. A visit to the imiquely beautiful spring (near Kobe, Rte. 37) where it is prepared (travelers welcome) is also recommended.^ A strict adherence to the best in Japan may be the stitch in time that will save an attack of typhoid and six weeks in the hospital.

Beer {hiiru — an adaptation from the English word) is now almost as much the national drink of Japan as it is of Germany, and vast quantities are brewed and drunk in the Empire — where it was introduced about 1870. Some of that made locally is considerably cheaper than the imported, and equally

galatable. The * Sapporo, Ehisu,* * Asahiy^ and ' MMmmener * rands (unknown marks should be avoided) of the Dai Nippon Brewery Company, Ltd., — a huge, 12 million yen corporation with several immense breweries and an output of 10 million gallons yearly, — are among the brands Qarge bottles, 35 sen; small ones, 20 sen) liked by foreigners. The breweries have a reputation for cleanliness and are said to be modeled after, and conducted on the lines of, the best ones of Germany. The hops used are grown in Japan.

Strangers will do well to eat sparingly of unfamiliar fruits and vegetables until they become acquainted with their after effects. Unwashed groimd fruits (strawberries, and the like) should not be eaten, nor should unclean lettuce, or raw fish. Smallpox sometimes ravages the rural districts, out f orei^ers seem singularly exempt — no doubt due to better samtary measures. The same applies to cholera, which killed 30,000 natives m 1890. and 2000 in 1912. The alert health officers are usually successful in keeping the bubonic plague under control, but are not so markedly fortunate with consumption and otib^ diseases of the respiratory organs, which kill 10,000 out of the 40, 000 persons who die during each year in T5ky5 alone. Other diaeaaes prevalent among the Japanese, but against which

WHAT TO WEAR tav

f oidgDerB can readily adopt preventive measures, are dyspepsia <due to fast and improper eating) ; beri-beri, or kakke (caused hj eating too much polished rice}; and trachoma, which phyei- dans believe is due to public bathing and various unhygienic Gostoms. Dysentery may be said to be endemic; it remains quiescent for a time, then (usually in summer) becomes diffused, and is so widely distributed (impure water, etc.) that 25,000 cases have been known in the Empire at one time. As it has been determined definitely that many diseases are communi- cated (through food and drink) by the agencv of flies (not very numerous in Japan), and that the bubonic plague is carried by Pulex serraticeps (unusually common), the traveler can take the necessary precautions. It is of great importance to avoid sudden chills, and strangers should not only wear the cholera- biuid mentioned at p. Ixxvii, but should refrain from trifling with slight indispositions — which may lead to more serious things. There are excellent foreign physicians in all the large Japanese ports, and their fees are reasonable. Tourists easily affected by poison ivy and similar substances may like to remember that certain cheap lacquered articles may not be handled in moist, hot weather with impunity, as the varnish used on them is made of a species of sumac that is poisonous to susceptible persons.

What to wear. Foreigners in the Far East are usually hos- intable to a fault, and even total strangers unequipped witii fetters of introduction rarely get out of the country without being entertained by some one. The Japanese are no whit less prompt to open their